I assume it doesn't matter if you're holding it with the foot brake or the hand brake? My guess it only occurs at a certain RPM which only happen under stationary idle under load. In which case it could be any of the many brackets in the engine bay rattling around. Can you hold it on the hand...

I also found Footman James the cheapest at £550. Adrian Flux wouldn't insure me. Think I was asking for 4000 miles per year, no points, no accidents but living in Croydon which is full of NEDs.

Yep, in the OP he says: "It has done this for a long time and with different valve blocks and driver packs." Sounds like he's replaced almost everything so it's a head scratcher.

He said he replaced the valve block though. This is weird. Only other possibility is the height sensor giving funny readings causing the ECU to squirm a bit. Could try swapping the front sensors across. When the front goes down down slowly can you hear the solenoid clicking? Could be a sign of...

Try pulling the hose out of the valve block and see how quickly that corner goes down. Should be quick.

I wonder of there is a restriction in the bag inlet that makes it slow to deflate. A flappy bit of rubber over the inlet could result in your symptoms.

Ah yes of course. Forgot about the extended setting.

I've just thought of something. Could leaving it running actually be the issue? I appreciate this is the opposite of what you are suggesting. If the suspension is fully extended and the engine is running, the ECU is going to think that it's too high and release air, only to find it never reaches...

Not looking for an argument, just a suggestion. If it did fail due to being on the 2 post ramp, there's a clue in there what problem(s) the car might have had before it went on the ramp. Do you find it on bump stops over night? I assume not as you said it was working fine before. So if it's...

I've not read this entire thread, but I think your being a little unfair to your garage. I usually do all my own work, but when I've asked for simple things from auto-electricians, like crimping on new battery terminals they refuse to do the work because they don't want a response similar to...

I am seriously tempted to buy some of these universal cable operated knobs and doing away with the blend motors. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201955247532 If anyone has a broken manual dial HVAC head unit they want to sell cheap, I'd like to have an experiment with one. On eBay they are over £100.

That's a real shame. That really is over complicating the system for no reason. I hoped it might be cable as when I removed the left blend motor the air box flap had a redundent arm on it that looked like a cable could be attached.

Has anybody ever downgraded to the base model rotary knob HVAC unit? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126278935122?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=GXxVErhQQL-&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=ekOY2RLDR4m&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I can't tell from the pictures if it uses cables or not to...

My HVAC has been down for a while. Both blender motors (right and left) not happy. Last weekend, finally got round to removing the easier to get to, but still quite hard left blender motor. One of the solder points on the potentiometer had failed, so sorted that, and that side seems to be...

I already had the head and liner off when I was trying to get the piston off the shaft. As mentioned above change the seal Insitu was fine in the end. Just a little tricky getting the liner on but otherwise straight forward. To tap the ring on I recommend putting something under the...

It's back together. I found a needle worked the best for getting the crap out of the o-ring recess without scoring it. Never did get the piston off. I think it's on forever. Setting the piston seal ring home was pretty easy in-situ. Just place a washer under the counter weight before hitting...

I think this head might be junk. Unless I can find a solvent that works, the only way to get the ring out is to scrape out it with with a screwdriver. So far I can only get tiny pieces out and if I go any harder I'm going to gouge the head. Why would you glue an o-ring in? Grrrrr.

I've just finished getting the cylinder off and that took a huge amount of abuse to separate from the head. I had the cylinder in the vice whilst I tapped and pried on the head and it took a lot of force to separate them. Is this normal? Just picking all the o-ring bits out now that are well and...

I actually backed it all the way out to eliminate it as a possible reason, but couldn't quite get it out through its hole, so drive it back in one turn. So I don't think this should be the issue. I reckon someone put loctite on the spline because I'm now putting a lot of force on it and it...

This is exactly what I've been doing. I'm a little nervous about being any more abusive with it. I might spray some WD40 (not too much) down there, let it sit, and try again later.