Yes... if you're happy to pay the standard repair cost! ;-)

I doubt it's the ECU. As I mentioned before.. I've never seen one with anything other than "LH Rear sensor short to another sensor" being an ECU fault. If swapping the ECU DOES fix it, can I get a hold of the dud one? I'd be interested to see if it's the same fault as what causes the "LH Rear...

Out of interest... pull the sensor out and try to reset the fault... There was a thread on Rangerovers.net not so long ago where a guy had the same issue with a RHF sensor fault. Link is here: http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/316442-abs-sensor-failures.html I doubt...

Island 4x4 do a set of 4 genuine Dunlop air springs for £187.49 + VAT and a set of the clips for bot front/rear springs for £6.25 + VAT. So just over £230 inc VAT for the springs and new clips. Then I guess it's just whatever your local garage would charge to change them. The last set I did...

I doubt it's ignition switch to BECM or anything like that. If the ignition switched power was dropping out, then there would be a lot more not working than just the engine cutting out. HEVAC, Blower motors etc for a start would all shut off - which there's no mention of that happening - just...

Those screws are a pain on the dash ducts. I am pretty sure I used a junior hacksaw blade to cut the mounts to pull them out... About the only bit of destruction I do when taking the dash out. I lavish the ducts with duct tape on reinstallation though, so the lack of that one screw doesn't...

No, no need to get the codes cleared. It might have logged the fault as historical - but it does the self-check every time it starts up. If you don't have ABS fault on the dash, then you're good to go. On some of the later (post '99) vehicles if they've had a fault with a sensor, then...

The dash-out method is by far the easiest... you need the heater box out on a RHD to swap the heater core whether you are putting in a factory one, or going Audi conversion, as the framework and the steering column are in the way. It is also nice to then be able to check over the blend motors...

I've got a factory winch tray in the garage which I've been meaning to fit for ages... just haven't got around to finding a winch that will fit nicely in there! Power also wouldn't be a problem for me... I have a split charge system, with a second MF31-1000 battery in the boot.. and twin +ve/-ve...

Replied to PM... Nissens 70230 is the part number I use these days. Slightly bigger heater hose connections, so 19mm is a really tight fit. Even I get a bit of weeping after awhile on the smaller one - partly because I'm sure the clamps loosen off just a smidge over time with all the...

I think they are standard SMD LEDs - they won't be anything like the newer super bright ones - just standard ones. They come in different sizes, so would be best to measure up the ones that are there and then match the sizing when ordering replacements. Depending on which ones have actually...

They are all surface mount LEDs on one PCB board. I changed mine out for different colours for the forward gears a few years ago, so had mine in pieces then. From memory, there were 3 or 4 of them all in series, and maybe a couple of blocks of them, to be able to light the whole thing evenly...

Yes, A picture of the door latch and wiring going to it if you can. As Saint.V8 says - the door card needs to come off for that. I can tell from the wiring as to what version of latch it is, and how much of a pain it is to replace the switches separately. Likewise, I can also tell you what...

I was guessing that being Byron Bay, and there's some sunshine in the picture, that it's in Australia... In which case, the EKA is probably not enabled, as it wasn't turned on by default on the AU market vehicles (at least the early ones) - likewise passive immobilisation isn't generally...

It's probably the microswitches in the door latch itself. They are known to fail over time - and if you are relying on using the key to get in, then it's necessary to have all the microswitches working. I refurbish door latches here in the UK - so have them apart all the time. The internals...

Whoever said the 3 amigos lights coming on was 'fine' shouldn't be advising people on things like braking. I had it on my first P38 and and the garage at the time (this was 10+ years ago back in NZ) said that it was a sign of low brake pressure, and generally means the accumulator needs...

Also something else to check - Even though this is sorted at the moment... The rubber guide right at the front of the door (internally) can come loose, or get kinked - which puts more pressure on the glass as it goes up (generally about half way up where the scissors on the regulator are in...

As mentioned - follow the procedure in the handbook, or how Tomcat mentions. Basic rule of thumb with p38's... ALWAYS disconnect the battery when the vehicle is an unlocked/disarmed state. It will power back up in the state it was in when power was lost... so if it's locked/alarmed, then it...

On a P38, bigger is better. The biggest that will physically fit in the battery tray is a MF31-1000. I got mine from Battery Megastore, and was branded Hankook. Though google searching MF31-1000 shows other places doing them too, under different brand names. It's rated about 115AH and...

What plug was it that was steam cleaned? Boiling over doesn't necessary mean block/liner failure - it could just be the head gasket, which if you are mechanically able to take on a full engine swap, then a head gasket swap would be a walk in the park for you. Granted, it *could* be a...