I have one last little leak to sort and can’t for the life of me work out where it’s getting in!! It comes out of the bottom of the b pillar, on the inside, where the door seal goes. Literally drips from the bottom of the double skinned bit. I’ve done a fair bit of tidying up seals etc but I...

Have a look at my “try again” thread mate but don’t get too scared. To get you started typical areas that go and reasons why: Rear quarters Rear alpine windows Boot floor Inner wings Front light boxes Footwells - get rid of that **** sound deadening in your footwells - it’ll rot them...

This is genius. The egr coolant sensor in the head was naturally unplugged. Previous owner turned it into a tippex pot and pen to mark the headbolt torque angles. This is a good sign I think as HG will have been done, hopefully as preventative. In other news, I got a sender adapter for the oil...

👌 didn’t know they came on later ones?! I got them from a Range Rover classic and swapped the lumber adjuster to the other side to fit it

Collapsed bolster sorted out I then re scrimmed the leather that sat on bolster and repaired as much damage as I could. After that it was the long process of re- colour. This was done with binder, air brush colour then a sealer to keep it all locked in. I just need to condition it now.

Been putting the random spare hours in on my other D1 but project premium is not forgotten. Couple weeks ago, I took my seat apart to fox the heated pad, bolster and then re-colour in near enough the same colour. I also switched the lumbar support to the other side which allowed me to fit the...

Welcome. Tidy motor 👍🏻

I’m yet to do the roof 😂😂😂😂

The eager eyed amongst you will notice pic was originally green. Which is a bit of a shame as I do like a green d1. The paint job is diy - a one stage product. It’s tatty in places but that’s not really too much upset - whoever did it actually didn’t do a bad job. There’s a bit of crap in it in...

I’ll keep hold of it just couldn’t work out if the place it’s plugged is meant to have something plugged there as standard. As Marjon said, maybe it’s purposely there for rear trailer. I’m just trying to get all wiring tidied up. I’ve started building my fuse board and if I don’t need the feed...

That’s a fair shout. I have no experience towing and if I ever do tow I’ll use my pickup. I think it must branch off twice as one socket near rear light inside (leisure battery I assume) and then a socket for towing at the tow ball. Those relays are 60 quid a pop!!! So pig either spent its life...

@sierrafery - sorry to keep dragging you in 😂. Could you confirm if my assumptions is correct please 🙏

I’m assuming it’s usually empty and that durite loom is piggy backing into it. It also seems too convenient that LR would’ve left an empty positive though?! I do overcomplicate it all and that’s why it confuses me so always have to stop and dumb it down. As I would understand it, you have one...

What I’m trying to work out is if this terminal is usually empty

No idea mate - it would make sense as it would charge the leisure then stop charging it when main volts drop.

It goes, fuse box live, 50 amp, durite drop relay, rear sockets. Is the connection in that fuse box just a handy location for this durite to plug in or is that terminal usually used?

Trying to work out what’s been done here as can’t find diagram for how the fuse box is normally linked up. As far as I can remember, I only had a brown going in to the fuse box and can’t remember there being another live. I want to wire in an aux fuse box with relays. Currently, there’s this...

What!!! Go on then. Money to be made from the likes of me

I’ll bring the cutters, you bring the van

Spoke too soon didn’t I! Passenger is bone dry, drivers is wet but just around the door opening. The door seal is shot but not sure it would’ve let in. Could be anything really. A pillar feels dry as does bulkhead