When I moved my filler, I just went to the nearest LPG installer and they gave me a metre of hose for diddly squat :-)

Many thanks......time to have a looksee :)

Hi all, if anyone has an LPG conversion where the reducer is on the driver's side of the engine bay can they post a photo up showing where it is mounted to, or message me one please. Mine is on the passenger side and so I have (an exessive) 6ft of water hose that has to make its way behind the...

Hi all, my EAS has been working without a hitch in the 2 years I've had the car. However, since the start of the cold weather I've noticed that it takes a lot longer than normal to reach height/pressure. It gets there eventually but can take 10mins at times. It a;lso seems to lose...

+1 check all the leads from coil pack to plugs. I marked all mine and still got 2 the wrong way round

Sorry, read the initial thread too quickly :oops: So am I correct that you still have the original setup that was working previously in place and the only thing you've changed is the remote? Does the remote operate the relay correctly (on and off)? Nothing else has been swapped/disconnected? Is...

Just found this on an old thread: I wired this in at the receiver, cutting the orange wire and running that through the relay and taking the power supply from the live and ground feeding the receiver, you now have to press the new remote to lock-arm the relay then use your car fob as normal. on...

Just had another thought, have you tapped the power and earth from the rf receiver's supply or have you cut the supply to the receiver? If I remember correctly, you need to tap off the power and earth (to get +12v and earth to the relay) then cut the +12v line between the tap off point and the...

The relays are normally 4-wire affair. 2 power the relay and the other two are the pass through for whatever device you're attaching. Does the relay click when you press the remote button? With the relay power connected and a multimeter across the other 2 wires, do you get a short when the...

I'd best start getting some pallets together and fire up the tablesaw......

Didn't think £9500 was too bad. Could've put up more pics of the house that comes with it though........

To ease your worried wallet, I had replaced crankshaft sensor in mine but my starting issue remained.

With the very able assistance of Odyssey's nanocom mine showed no faults whatsoever. It had previously for a bad injector (turned out to be a broken wire) but nothing for the fuel issue. Also followed a thread by Xbrit on rangerovers.net and asked the question having read the post: FRESHMAN...

So, back to where I was earlier. Mine was doing same. Cold or hot, plenty of turn but no catch until a couple or three tries. My '96 4.0 has a fuel filter (just up behind the air tank). Mine is screw unions but they can be push fit with clips apparently. I swapped pump, filter and (due to...

All sorted. Pump arrived today. Got a lift from Securicor to fetch the pipes. Went back together easy. All running great, no probs :-)

Just swapped my fuel filter and pump and, at an extortionate cost, the pipes from the pump to the filter and return union. Car now starts as probably everybody else's does and immediately settles down. Same on LPG, no bother.

+1 on the bolts. My nemesis was also the hardest to reach. Other than that, steady job following RAVE. Did end up using one of these though http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set-5-pcs/96028?_requestid=639999

Hi Alan, yep found that too! Both feed and return rusted to bits. Bit the bullet and got a new pump whilst I've got the tank off. Hopefully coming tomorrow. The pipes........£150 the pair!! Nearly gave up drinking......

Hi all, just got around to swap the fuel filter on my '96 4.0 GEMS and the threads on the union on the tank side have evaporated before my eyes. The question is, anyone else had the issue? Can the union itself be swapped or will I need to remove the whole line back to the tank? Also, if I've...