This will be important thing for you depending on what is found with more investigation. If you have the details of your purchase it might not help you keep the vehicle if it does come back as stolen but it can prove you bought in good faith and are not the one who stole it! |Does this mean...

only on the expert range, similar to halfrauds!

You have said everything I was just typing out to say! Agree the battery needs a good charge and go through the battery to chassis cables and other earthe cables between engine and chassis. Give all of them and the attachment area to clean and wire brushing so all the connections have a good...

Have to say I think I agree with the above. moving to electric sound like a lot of unnecessary effort and expensive if you already have a pas system. Just repair and make good to oem. If you didn't have pas and were looking to fit as an upgrade ti would be different and I know a couple of...

Pay attention to the link provided here. TRW is the brand you want for master and slave, not some no/cheap-name pattern part that will only last a couple of months.

Do as much as possible. There is no way you can do to much to rust proof a chassis. Galv, then primer, then top coat, then wax inside and out.

If you are talking about the steel work of the chassis rather than the actual body work you can get a very acceptable finish with a diy job on this as it is just a flat black. Give it a wire brush and then even a couple of coats of hammarite gives a reasonable protective finish. Or for a better...

I changed the seals myself on my box, and it lasted about 3 months before the leak came back worse than before. I am now looking to fit a recon box and see if I get any better luck. On the research i did resealing it yourself is very hit and miss and lots of people ended up with similar...

Or file little square holes that can then be painted and preserved and fit RTC3745 which the screw then goes into.

Not sure on the newer ones but when I painted my roof (the old fashioned DIY way with a roller and brush) it was alpine white, But I have a tdi era vehicle.

Some more progress this afternoon although some of it is only temporary. Fitted the sill/B/C-pillar (temporarily) so that I could get the rear floor upstand lined up. This will need to be removed to fit the end caps to the floor as they need the C-pillar mounting holes drilled into them once in...

Some more progress this afternoon although some of it is only temporary. Fitted the sill/B/C-pillar (temporarily) so that I could get the rear floor upstand lined up. This will need to be removed to fit the end caps to the floor as they need the C-pillar mounting holes drilled into them once in...

If the chassis, engine and running gear are all td5, it is likely the whole vehicle is and therefore the only thing that is '87 is the reg plate. in which case you have a whole world of issues, cannot register unless on a Q as a "new" vehicle and should follow the advice above of getting your...

Funny She is the reason I fitted the heated seats to mine as well as she hated being a passenger becasue it was cold, draught and wet. So I thought I would remove the cold element, but she still complained because she doesn't like heated seats!

Other than the reg plate what else makes you think it is an '87 not a td5? Although anything can be changed there are some bodywork differences that you would not bother changing unless you had a whole donor vehicle. I assume the rear tub is a td5 tub as the filler will be in a different...

interesting my 110 is '89 but I had originally the same setup as @Hicap phill and then kept that setup and switch positioning when I upgraded to 300tdi looms and just made a little extension loom to take the fog light to the column..

Might not be local to you but it is the Newbury spares day is at the weekend, I am sure there will be some available there.

Look at you with your fancy power tools :rolleyes: I still do everything by hand, definitely a nice to have but not required.

I had aftermarket ones for a while in mine as said above they do have separate plugs so you can fully disconnect the seat base. I found that once I had sorted my heater out and had that working I no longer used the heated seats. They were never very good in my opinion (but that might have bene...

240k is not an immediate red flag. And a galv chassis is a big plus point. But everything else still needs a thorough checking over. Especially the bulkhead. But also the drive train components unless they have already been replaced.