They are the old be pillars. They are about the only part that isn’t completely rusted away so have held onto them for now in case they are of use to anyone rather than giving to the scrap man. The door seals are the normal press on defender style door seals.

Without wishing to sound patronising, It is likley to just be the fuel pump! These have an intank fuel pump that unlike a discovery is audible from inside the vehicle. If everything is working as it should I would not worry about it too much. Aftermarket pumps are louder than genuine. If the...

Separate thread here LINK, but posted here as well to keep things together. I am rebuilding a station wagon rear body to swap onto my hard top. And have been confidently planning to use my existing roof as I have already refurbished, painted and sealed it. Shame on everyone for not pointing...

I am rebuilding a station wagon rear body to swap onto my hard top. And have been confidently planning to use my existing roof as I have already refurbished, painted and sealed it. Shame on everyone for not pointing this out to me earlier!! It also does not have alpine windows or a sunroof like...

The whole things is fairly bad @miktdish was spot on with his fizzing comment earlier! In hindsight I should have done the whole floor rather than just the second row seat box. But I am too far down the line now. I have some Ali sheet so think I will make a full width panel between the wheel...

They have already gone. As have the mud flap brackets (disconnected when removed the chequer for painting). I had forgotten the rear seatbelt mounts however which I have just removed revealing more gaping holes in the floor beneath! I think with these I will just put an Ali patch over the top...

I am hoping to remove the roof today and then get the tub fully unbolted ready to be lifted off end of this week. Can I just check the list below of things to unbolt to allow the tub to be removed if complete and I have not missed anything: Rear wiring loom Fuel filler (had forgotten that) rear...

It was also what I had available at the time and was initially a temporary stop gap. But that was about 10 years ago now as it just worked!

A little more progress today before being summoned home for a baby full of cold who was refusing to nap! Didn’t get quite as much done as I had hoped but did make some progress Unbolted the rear crossmember bolts and the remains of the very rusty floor bolts cut out along with the seat box...

I also have a brown church. But I have an old galvanised wire fence panel cable tied to mine.

The one in one of the windows I have just refinished was self tapper. But it looked like a wood screw so I assumed it was not original. It was also in there tight enough I did not bother trying to remove it!

Most importantly the first thing you should do is post as many pictures on here as possible for everyone else have a look/judge/advise on the vehicle.

Underseal is used a generic term for rust proofing the underside of a car, however underseal as a product itself is a terrible product that seals water in and allows the chassis to rust away behind it while still looking in good condition. similar to powder coating. It should be avoided at all...

A 3.5l rover v8 is a 40% increase in capacity so should fit within the rules, and you can then go back to more or less a standard land rover setup. Not sure where you are based (clearly not the UK) so not sure how plentiful the rover v8 unit is for you.

Are they not just a standard metric countersunk machine screw? I don’t think they are anything special. See if an m4-m6 bolt will screw in to confirm the thread. (I don’t think they are imperial) and then just order one the correct length.

Oh that is a bad idea. You can very quickly rack up An eye watering bill! Especially with their stainless or galv options.

Another vote here for YRM. They are very good quality and have nearly every panel that like to bubble aways to nothing. I hvae rebuilt my seatbox using all of their panels and am currently rebuilding a station wagon rear body using their panels work as well.

And there is the serious money I was talking about previously.

I did wonder that. But it looks very crude. I will check next time I am with the vehicle they interact or are separate pedals.

The clutch is butchered. But I am planning on swapping it for the later model flat bar style pedal with the clock spring as I have one left over from my previous rebuild and it needs new clutch hydraulics anyway. I will see if it a tivates when pressing the clutch. I’m not planning on keeping...