Just had a read. Read this https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-aux-belt-change.49002/page-2 Looks.like the holding nut is a reverse thread and you turn the 24mm anti clockwise

I can't recall for sure but think you turn clockwise. once you tighten the nut you turn the tensioner clockwise so tighten it further. What does manual.say ?? Check the direction but it makes sense or it would just unscrew as you say.

Wondered if Freelander 1 came with gas shocks as standard? Doing a top bearing on a front strut. Car drives fine and bounce test fine but no gas pushing strut out when removed. Maybe it is a non gas type ? Anyone know ? Thanks

I understand your confusion !! The bit you can't see behind the pulley is that it is on a spring with a crank on the spindle so that the pulley, when turned, moves on an arc into the belt space and hence loosens the belt. You may need to tighten the rear nut as you are not turning the 24mm...

Don't leave LED sidelights in with conventional headlights. Heat will break the LEDs .

Apparently from the post above. Solved my G4 as well. Bit early to say on the Sport !!

Just a note on the subject of the modified brake switch which might help others. Bought one with the lead to fit to my TD4 Sport. It has had a very occasional TC and HDC light come on when braking despite cleaning old type switch. Before dangling under dashboard I tested the new one with an...

If it is the one behind the thermostat, pretty sure that is in the block. Core plugs usually are !

Can't picture where that is ! Have just stripped a failed TD4 engine so can help with what comes off. The timing chain cover with the removable hex plugs in doesn't have water behind it. Give me a clue where to look and I will check out my, now, box of bits !!

Has to be 100% square on. When I had a problem in the past I measure distance between engine plate and bellhousing, so the gap. It needs to be same all the way around then should push in. Not too much force and don't put strain on the input shaft of gearbox.

How did you centre the friction plate when you fitted the clutch?

Could be the 'O' ring on the coolant rail or the thermostat housing itself. O ring is impossible to change without either removing the thermostat housing or the coolant rail from the engine.

Sounds positive. Wondered if the 'water injection' had kicked in on the way home !! Good to see you both. Good luck with the rear suspension on KV's buggy.

Fluid in bellhousing on a 1.8 sounds like front input shaft oil seal ??

Countersunk the hole on mine and fitted a countersunk screw.

Seeing as the engine is scrap. Whip the sump off, jam the crank with a block of wood and use a long breaker bar to unscrew it.

Haven't finished the fit and test yet

Looking to improve the VCU bearing life, I have measured and purchased some oil seals to press in after the bearing. Then can pack grease in and the seal can run on the prop where the useless bent washer fits. Remove the washer and keep the grease in and the dust and water out. Just an idea....

Save £60 and reuse old crank pulley then buy the clutch !?

Never seen a dizzy cam. Can the bit that turns the dizzy be swapped to the new cam?? Not sure of the answer to this.