I have an update for you here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/auto-1-8.385468/post-5577137

I have an update for your topic. ARBID: 0x329 -B5 - Throttle position Sensor (00-FE). -B7 - is a copy of B5 on my Freelander, and always a zero with my Rover 75 ECU. I am about 90% sure that this is why I get TC warning lights when I touch the throttle with a Rover 75 ECU but not with a...

I think that that the throttle position sensor is on the throttle body, under the bonnet, whereas the switch is on the pedal, so not that easy to mix up. Haynes shows only two wires on the throttle switch but I think that actually I have an hall effect "electronic" switch with three wires, but...

Right now I have the original Freelander engine ECU installed, not a donor one. I'm trying to replicate the problem that I get with the donor ECU, but with the original Freelander ECU. So, with a totally stock Freelander 1.8, if I disconnect the throttle switch I should get TC warning light when...

but that's the thing, with the stock 1.8 K series ECU I can't replicate this. I can't get the TC light to come on. Surely disconnecting the pedal switch and applying some throttle should/would cause the TC light to come on? but it doesn't.

Back to the problem that the hill decent warning light comes on if I touch the throttle pedal with a Rover 75 ECU:- I thought I would have a go at recreating this fault with the stock Freelander ECU. The theory is that the TC warning comes on because the Freelander has an idle switch as well as...

according to LUK the starter ring is shrunk on but the crank sensor teeth are machined into the body. At least the thing exists. Metal can be cut and shaped.

some good news. The crank sensor ring on a Rover 75 1.8 manual flywheel is the same diameter as the one on my V6 torque converter. I may have to get a manual flywheel/dual mass flywheel and cut the middle out of it to make a ring, and weld that to my V6 torque converter. I don't know how easy...

if you are anywhere near me in Ruislip we can give it a go with my T4

I already have a Rover 75 ECU working in my (wife's) Freelander 1 as you know. The Freelander 1 1.8 PG1 gearbox has a VRS crank sensor whereas the Rover 75 ECU expects a hall effect output signal. Andrew Revell managed to do a hardware / firmware combination that converts from VRS to hall...

You can have a fairly minor front knock if the towing eye hits something solid and it will deploy the front airbags. In the case of the passenger one the cover flies up and smashes the windscreen. If you often drive on your own you might be better off without as it's more repairable without...

I'm back from the inlaws. Yesterday I went back to the scrap V6 and took a load more parts. Rear diff to match the IRD that I already took. Complete wiring loom, well 99% of it. That took a few hours to remove (I had to remove the dash and the cabin blower motor). Both front drive shafts. Auto...

I haven't figured out how to drive a Freelander cooling fan from the R75 ECU. These seems important.

The R75 1.8 starter motor ring is definitely smaller than the Freelander V6 one, so the I think that starter motor placement is probably different. Yes they are both Jatco gearboxes but there are many differences. Fortunately the bit that I need to be the same, I think is the same; and that's...

1. The MEMS3 from an auto 1.8 uses a different type of sensor to the ones with a PG1 gearbox. They use a sensor with a three pin connector and it detects teeth that are on the outside of the torque converter. 2. Maybe, maybe not. It's a totally different bellhousing. 3. It's not that an auto...

Two more problems to overcome. 1. The crank sensor tooth pattern for the V6 appears to be totally different to the Rover 75 1.8 auto, therefore I'm gonna have to find a Rover 75 one (torque converter) and hope that it engages with the V6 Jatco internals and oil seal okay. 2. A 1.8 auto...

so the IRD is not in exactly the same place on all of the cars. I need to be careful

The propshaft is already on my wife's TD4. Are they different? I'm getting a vibration under hard acceleration. Is that why?

For some reason I didn't take the driveshaft when I took the V6 Jatco. Anyway the vehicle owner says he'll keep them for me. I also want to go back and remove the entire wiring loom and cut the sills off because mine are rusty and his are pristine.

The mechanical stuff will have to wait for a while. I need to concentrate on getting the electronics to work first. I think that I need to build a CAN gateway to intercept / reinsert the throttle idle switch signals. It's easier to do this whilst the existing ECU still works and that means...