Loads of factory holes on the D3, of course older ones have even more!

That will be underseal, you don't want that as it hardens, then water gets behind it. I think you can get hand applicators for chassis wax, they work okay so long as the wax is warm, ie nice and thin.

How do you stop the engine normally?

Even the cheapies are okay, you pay more money for better quality and hopefully longer life.

To be fair I only used 5 litres, and I gave most bits at least two coats, so depending on what an aerosol costs it might not be as expensive as you think.

Stop cable pushed in? stop cable inj pump end defo hitting the stop?

Tetroseal from fleabay, on offer 25 quid for a 5 litre tin, only two tins left so I bought them. I did mix some hydraulic oil in with the wax (about 5 to 10 percent) as I wanted more creep. Not aerosol but a sealey wax gun, years old, still sell them. Weirdly price is pretty much what I paid...

Do we the collective have to google what you are on about?

Is there an access panel in the floor for the fuel pump? I ask as all the d1 and d2s had said panel.

Remember to fuse the wire as close to the battery as possible.

The in tank pumps have a fine plastic mesh, when this blocks up they can get noisy, they can also get noisy when they are worn out!

Friction plate fitted backwards?

Run the wire under the car to the battery box, following the battery cables, no need to enter cabin that way, quick as well.

Sounds like alt fan rubbing casing.

Iirc alt is told what to do via a pwm signal. In your case I would be checking the earth strap as it is a common fail point, have a google, it is underneath the engine. @gstuart might have some pics.

Chassis waxed the car tonight, and actually remembered to get some pics of the tank guard installed.

Cable tie the injector plug on and try again

Manifold gasket Head gasket Tappet bucket widget

on the plus side even a knackered engine is worth money for Parts

I would not be mentioning what security people use to any new unknowns?