Our old F1 was SWMBO's and I rarely drove it so I hadn't driven a F1 for several years before buying the car I converted to EV. It didn't have a radio when I got it so I had nothing to compare but the Android head unit I have seems to be pretty good however the speakers are weak so they will be...

Hi guys I'm trying to calibrate the rev counter in my EV converted Freelander 1 so would like to know what rpm you guys see at 50mph, 60mph, and 70mph in 5th gear. Even better would be if you can confirm the speed from Waze or Google maps as wheel/tyre size effects the speedo. I currently have...

If you can find one with buttons it should be better than one without. If you must have one without buttons then steering wheel control is none optional.

You guys are not turning your radio up high enough.

Thanks mate, I'll do that. I put the 1500µF cap in earlier and it seems to be working a treat, completely preventing the drop out I could see before, goes to show how poor quality the modules are so I'll probably figure out a way to get rid of them.

It got kicked plenty but no it didn't help. 😡 Funny old thing but turning it off and on again did. I think the issue is being caused by a little timer module that is extremely susceptible to fluctuations in voltage which can be caused by the vacuum pump kicking in. These things...

I'm still draining those pesky last two cells to try and get them to average. It is a pain but I'm getting there. Unfortunately that's more than can be said of the car as I went to use it today and it cut out again this time in the middle of a roundabout. I thought I had sorted that issue but it...

So good and bad news for the BMS. The good news is it's working. I can see every cell and have been able to manually drain a few that were too high. They were maybe 40 or 50mV higher than average so not disastrous but bad enough to potentially do harm if the pack were fully charged as they could...

Sounds like a broken wire in the loom where it bends for the door. I haven't seen it before but FL1 leccy windows love to fail. It's their favourite mode.

Yesterday I managed to break my rear right window regulator. "No probs" says I, "I have a spare in the test mule" So I whipped it out and popped it into the Freelander EV. Up it went, down it went, up it went, down it went, up it went, Bang it went. :mad: Two replacement regulator repair kits...

Regarding the bms breaking at cell 48, a suggestion has been made to move the neg contactor in the rear battery box (that is probably overkill anyway) to between cells 48 and 49. This should protect against accidental damage to the bms and would be fairly simple and easy to do. Hopefully I'll...

If you can connect one wire you can connect two. If you can connect two wires you can connect five. If you can connect 5 wires....... you get the point. It looks daunting and complicated but when you break it down it's just connecting wires. There are four rows of modules in the boot with 8...

The last few days I've been struggling to get my head around the BMS again. Although it probably won't be able be able to keep the pack balanced it's a good idea to have it working as I can use a simple Bluetooth dongle and App called LeafSpy to monitor the voltages of each cell. Having the BMS...

The drive shaft joints are at a more extreme angle so need to work harder and are further out in the cups, the rubber boots have a harder time too. You didn't say if you checked the clearance for the track rod ends. With a 50mm lift kit this is critical as in my experience they will catch on the...

The only Issue I had with my lift kit was it shortened the life of the front drive shafts. If yours give trouble do not by cheap aftermarket as they will fail almost immediately. Make sure your track rod ends clear the chassis legs with the car jacked up and on full lock. If you are off roading...

Well done with the rear door, good to hear it wasn't seized after all. I've never replaced a lock mechanism in a Freelander but the latch is pretty easy so hopefully it is not too hard.

Did you get the back story to this fault? Before it jammed was it hard to close? Was she having to slam it to get it to close? Was it opening easily? Did it spring open fiercely when she opened it. There might be a clue here that will help get it open. Like I said before, I've never heard of...

WD40 for the drivers door key. The microswitch tells the car the door is open or closed. I've only been in that area once but I found it relatively easy to open the door by either pulling or pushing (sorry I can't remember which). I've never heard of them seizing before so I'm wondering was...

Maybe get someone to push on the door as you try to release it.

Adding a turbo has been done, there is a thread here from a few years ago. VVC has been discussed but I think it was decided torque at lower rpm was more desirable than hp at 7k. Muddymods is your go to for upgrades.