Neither have I but that doesn't mean it hasn't happened. I just don't understand the logic of greasing the face of wheel hubs.

I have always been concerned at the idea of putting grease on the face of a wheel hub. Maybe at the edges in the very centre but if you grease the face of the hub then the wheel no longer has friction between it and the hub. This means the only thing preventing the studs being ripped off during...

No probs I believe you can manoeuvre the cradle in without fully dropping the rear subframe but you will need to drop it a bit. I'm not sure how much.

I have a cradle in decent condition with only light surface rust if you want it. I assume it was replaced maybe a year or so before I bought the car. A drop of paint and it would be like new. Only looking £25 plus postage.

The 1.8 K series is a decent engine but will never be torquey. Any improvements will be hardly noticeable unless you're looking for them. I'd suggest you put any spending into stuff that will make you happy like the sound system or visual upgrades.

I've done it several ways. Welding after the fluid is put in doesn't work well as the fluid effects the welds. I really struggled doing it that way. Injecting the fluid in with a grease gun might be possible but how do you measure the amount that has gone in? If you can do that it is probably...

Probably using a lot of pressure. I turned my VCU upside down and left it for an our or so and they all fell eventually out, took hours to clean them though using petrol and diesel. How do you plan to refill it?

Bottom line is I messed up again! Thankfully only the pride was hurt. 😋

New video.

I can't have the BMS controlling the charge speed for technical reasons so I'll need to control it another way. TBH I haven't given it much thought as it hasn't been high on my priority list. I can't see many situations where I'll be charging 100% anywhere except at home. Enough to get me home...

50kW charging would give me a full charge from empty in around 45 minutes so not exactly convenient but for all the often I would need to use it, perfectly acceptable. 99% of the time I need to use fast charging it would be from 20% or higher to 80% or 90% so would be 30 minutes at most.

Thanks mate It was a lot of fun seeing the look on their faces when they realised it was fully electric, there were Ferrari's and Porches that got less attention. From the start I wanted it to be a practical car that I could use every day for normal Freelander type purposes and for the most...

I didn't have the knowledge until I started, it's amazing what you can learn when you have the interest to do so. I don't know if I have patience or am too stubborn/pig headed/obstinate or just plain stupid to know better.

Since my last post the car has driven several hundred miles without an issue so hopefully I have it sorted this time but I don't understand why it happened so I'm still a bit cautious. The contactor should be held closed by the latching relay to prevent the issue, I guess time will tell if it is...

I'm with GG. 🤣 Only suggestion I can make is if you have mill the bell housing maybe take a little less off than you think. That way if you are right you will need to do it again which is a pain but if you are wrong you might save yourself the hassle of finding another gearbox.

When I was lining mine up, because of the solid shaft between the motor and gearbox it pretty much centred itself even before I spun the motor. Would it be possible for you to make up an alignment tool to do similar? The gearbox end is simple as you just use an old clutch disk cut down but not...

This reminds me of the fun I had mating the TD4 gearbox to the Nissan Leaf motor. In my case I was able to make the motor spin to centre the two but that will be another challenge for you.

The speedo work fine and you are right about it getting speed from the ABS sensors, it reads optimistic because I have the Nissan Leaf wheels and tyres on it. They just happened to fit and had good tyres so I figured I would use them for a while until I get new tyres on the Freelander wheels...

Will you need an adapter plate of some sort? And depending on the length of the input shaft will you need to machine the bell housing? It was relatively simple for me with the EV conversion as I just made a solid coupler with help from Nodge.

Thanks mate, much appreciated. As always with me perfection is not an option but we still try. 🤣