I'm assuming you have an FL2 so not familiar as no rear ALB on FL1 but shouldn't they both be the same length? In any case when changing them make sure you jack up BOTH front wheels and it will be much easier. First time or two I did the job I struggled big time as only jacked up one wheel.

Ain't you got a K series in the MG?

Good luck with the new car. If you're handy and don't mind a bit of work then refurbing the VCU yourself is absolutely doable.

It didn't happen if we can't see the photo's and videos! 😊 Well done mate, I'm sure you also get a kick out of driving past folk who can't understand why it's so quiet.

Bigger bolts are two short and one long grunt, smaller just a grunt or two.

Drove it for the first time in over a week. Had to jump start it as the 12V battery is bad and the voltage was low but was able to do that with an old 12V 3Ah sealed lead acid battery. One of the perks of no ICE. :p

I spoke too soon. :( Got in the car this morning and the roof liner was sagging on me bonce again. I suspect I'll need to remove the powdered foam this time.

You can buy them but they are expensive so it would be cheaper to buy a contactor with the economiser built in. Some guys use a resistor and capacitor in parallel then connected in series with the contactor. When you apply 12V (or really 14.4V) the capacitor behaves as a short circuit across...

7kW would be nice, I'm using the Outlander OBC (on board charger) which is only 3kW.

I think they use full voltage to energise the contactors and ensure they close correctly then reduce the voltage to prevent them overheating. You can buy contactors that have economisers attached to the side of them and will do this for you. A year or two ago I measured the current drawn by the...

This is the thread about Contactor economisers https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3636&hilit=contactor For my build I bought contactors from China with economisers built in but if you want to use yours it is better to have a way to reduce the current.

LOL, I've fried more than one but the most recent left me stranded at the side of the road. It was just a silly mistake on my part but these things happen.

Great to see more progress here, all looking good. :) Two things about those contactors. 1. They draw a lot of current therefore tend to overheat, can you build a circuit to reduce the current after they have closed? A simple capacitor and resistor will work but I think some of the guys in OI...

It's a Landrover, if it's meant to come off it doesn't and if it's meant to sty put it falls off.

Grab the pillar cover and pull it off. Loads of room under it.

Maybe just paint the fibre glass and stick it back in. I got rid of my test mule a week ago by calling the scrap metal man to come and take it away. There were lots of things I should have removed including the headliner but TBH laziness kicked in and I let it go. I might regret the decision...

I'm way to lazy to do all that work so a couple of days ago I peeled back the headliner above the drivers seat and sprayed in some adhesive, gave it a few minutes and smoothed it back into position. Worked a treat but I guess we'll see how long it lasts. Some day I might do the same for the...

I think there might be bolts below the ECU or at least somewhere on the inside plus the one that can't be seen that was mentioned before.

Lots of WD40 for a day or two, a few taps with a hammer then brute force and ignorance until it breaks or rounds off as neither of the first two suggestions will have made any difference. :oops: Then get the drill out!

I dumped a perfectly good exhaust as even though I listed it on Gumtree nobody wanted it. Same with the fuel tank cradle. Might be worthwhile getting a used one from a scrapper as they last 20 years +