Her kind of kindness we can do without.

I don't get the heat gun to close, just enough to soften it, worth having a go on a scrap 1, the seal material might cope well with a bit of heat.

Have you tried a heat gun? I use this at work for removing old stuck on seals, softens the adhesive. Might be worth trying it on 1 you don't want to keep first in case it damages the seal more than the adhesive!

You should send the mechanic the bill for all those parts and your time.

From Rave... Do you think your circled wire is C0577? Rave says C0577-1 goes to Glow Plugs from FL6. Its spec if NW,8.2D,640 so is something and white and is a thick 8,2mm core.

Fuse F10 takes a feed directly from the ignition switch. All the others take a feed from FL4 circled in red in the wiring diagram... Presumaby you had the ignition on or just recently turned off when you powered with a direct feed from the battery, as F33 & F34 would not otherwise have got...

They guy I bought mine off used it to put the bikes on the back to go mountain bike riding. He got to old to ride the bike. His car was a pristine Porsche 911, that he was very proud of as owner and enthusiast, her car a Boxter. He had the Freelander serviced at the same outfit that he sends...

Not exactly sure, but I think mines a GS spec, so hasn't got the bells and whistled I won't use. It's still got a much higher spec than my F1 and flys by comparison even though its only a TD4. Who ever bought it new though, splashed cash on really nice leather seats with arm rests. So basic...

From a another thread in the last few days, power comes from the F14 fuse on a purple wire. However, if F14 is caput, there will be other things not working that you would have noticed.

Cops can chase you from a distance now and still read your plate number :oops:

Looks like the purple wires go to fuse F14 to. I'd waterboard F14 till it starts working. Although it must be if stuff works when you power it. So it must be (or possibly not!) FL4 that is caput. Or the wiring from it. That, boys and girls, is why you should never practice waterboarding.

The ODB socket takes power from fuse F14 in the fuse box which is fed from Fusible Link 4 under the bonnet and from there the battery. FL4 just powers the fusebox, nothing else, is there any power in the fuse box? If not FL4 is your culprit.

What is the purpose of the purple wire? From what you say, one end connects to the CCU, where does the other end go?

You essentially have a 2013 bodyshell (after you have removed everything) in which to install all the bits you can take off your 2008 car. Even then, I bet there would be mountings that are different.

I'm not even sure that what ever you do with the accelerator pedal has any effect on starting. I was under the impression that the ECU will use a predetermine amount of fuel before the engine fires in to life and will ignore the accelerator.

If it was OK before, I'm sure it will be OK after sitting idle. "New" ones have probably been sitting idle in crates for a very long time. I'd bung it on the car and do the 1WUT. You'll need to do it a number of times to spread the goo around to get a reliable reading, it will probably start...

Looks OK to me. Should say I have no idea what it should look like, just looks OK to me. I'm going by the IRD pinion which I think that would be OK on, so long as there was no lateral movement.

There's already loads of stickies on the main Freelander forum. Could be transferred to the Technical Archive, then you'd only have to bump it once a decade to keep it on the first page! Easy to find then.

Act-Two-Ally, I'm feeling rather sleepy and looking forward to my bed.

https://landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/alternative-to-the-fluid-coupling-vcu.301629/