This suggestion is consistent with it happening when driving, because the fuel gets shaken up and slops around in the tank, and could be giving an intermittent short problem. It might be a bad wire in the tank, getting pushed around by the heavy fuel, making and breaking the electrical...

With problem solving you need to try and determine when things happen, and if there is any consistency. At the moment, you seem to have a problem that occurs immediately after filling up with petrol. On fuel pumps, some are designed to be fully immersed in the fuel, including an electrical...

Thanks for the offer, looks like you are getting through the different possibilities gradually. I was not surprised when one bloke told me he spent £2k getting one electrical problem fixed, with everything that has to be worked through. I'll keep an eye on progress and cut back to chipping...

Me guessing and clutching at straws? The bloke said - any ideas And a further note on the fuel issue, some problems can show up fairly quickly, like with silicon in the fuel - knackers the lambda sensors and is not reversible, but as V39 says about different engine specs, no lambda sensor...

On the fuel side of things, how many tanks have you gone through since the problem started? This is important because contaminated fuel could show up a problem after a fill, but then slowly go over several tanks as the contaminant gets diluted out. It might be that the garage had a tanker...

Sometimes the symptoms you describe can be attributed to a poor batch of fuel. You might need to run a dose of fuel system cleaner through as a first approach - a bit cheaper than getting the injectors off and getting them cleaned. You would need to run a couple of tanks worth of fuel from...

Here's some useful information, which you asked for. Carbon on plugs only indicates incomplete combustion. It can be due to several reasons including blocked air filter, rich mixture - too much fuel, ignition fault. In general terms of fault rectifying, you start with all ignition...

Try doing an intellectual property review of 2000 patents over a period of a month, which works out at 100 patents a day in an 8 hour shift. That gives me eye ache. 10 pages in 2 weeks? Doesn't it warm your heart that there is a group of helpers/supporters who really want to get this...

URGENT!!! It could be the FUSE HOLDER or FUSE BOX itself - not the fuse. If there is a bad wiring joint on the fuse holder / box that would give a resistance, give a voltage drop and heat up that fuse!!!! You need to strip that fuse holder / box down and look at the wiring joints -...

Looking at that fuse, it looks like someone has put it somewhere hot, i.e. it isn't a failure of the fuse itself. Fuses are designed to blow way before the plastic would melt. Is there a source of heat aimed at that fuse box? If the fuses get hotter, then their resistances would...

On replacing the loom, you might be able to unplug certain LPG parts of the system and jury rig a short loom to rewire the petrol injectors, effectively to remove the LPG wiring aspect of the system temporarily, thereby removing any effect that any hypothesised LPG system failure could have...

With 10 ohm injectors, an equal resistance in series will reduce the voltage at the injectors by half. Relays can have an increase in the resistance of their contacts. Electrical components can heat up. But, you may need to look at the supply voltage to the LPG ECU, i.e. how good is the...

I think Vougese39 made the point of disconnecting the LPG ECU, but with many LPG conversions this isn't possible, unless you actually replace the loom with a new one. With LPG conversions, you have the LPG ECU switching the voltage supply from the engine ECU between the petrol and gas...

Once the lambda sensors have been tested to death or to confirm life, you might then be able to get onto the further question of fuel injection parameters. If you have checked all components for normal operation, checked for air leaks, checked global parameters such as fuel pressure - fuel...

Heaters on at low engine speeds and low loads, giving an envelope of operation, and switch off as everyone says at higher engine speeds and load. Depends what they chose the parameters to be at the factory. If you buy one new sensor, and replace one of the current ones, you would be able to...

On the LPG system, some installers are told not to cut the O2 sensor wires. Has someone done so? This is following on from eightinavee's thoughts.

I was going to relate one bit of experience from someone else, who I spoke to in our 4x4 group, he went on a course by some car company about fault finding. He said that the company had set up an intermittent fault where they had cut through a fuse blade, such that the continuity was...

Ouch that looks hot! Is the fuse rating to what it should be? or has someone swapped it for a higher rating? Once you know what it should be feeding, you could try switching the ignition on, but not to start, then with an Ammeter in series with an appropriate fuse, disconnect each of the...

With heated O2 sensors, could you try the old probing trick in the sensor connector and test for voltage on the sensor heater wire. You would need to do this carefully so you don't short the heater voltage to ground/0V. Just another suggestion to check the sensor function. See if you can...

vougese39, EGR problems are common on many engines, typically the EGR valve itself gets stuck open, feeding in too much exhaust gas. The symptoms of too much EGR are virtually identical to an air-leak. I was trying to look up the EGR system on this engine, but have had difficulty in...