Reason for Vas rather than Cu grease? Might be an old wives tale, but I thought Vaseline would melt and then there's a fire risk with the fumes... Alm.

Burn out on one of the terminals at the C285-7 joint, i.e. the Blue K109 header behind the dash. This was causing intermittent problems. Solution: Open up header joint with flat-head, clean out blue/green crud, stuff in Copper grease (careful not to cross over the busbars which are NOT...

Horrible dash, but props for the Ladoga Trophy sticker on the back of his other whip. Gotta have some respect for that. In case you're unfamiliar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=629cqckSudI Alm.

Finished re-wiring main loom, and re-assembly of dash, now with proofing. Numbers on the same commute run, same road, same direction, same-ish weather, same car: Max. reading: 92 dB (decrease of 10 dB) Average reading: 84 dB (decrease of 8 dB) Worth noting I took the same sort of...

Looking forward to getting up to 70mph for a test run, then finding out one of the UJs is short a few needles, or exhaust is blowing. Alm.

BEFORE: If you have good speakers you'd hear the un-proofed panel has a dull resonance (thuds and resonates for a few miliseconds). BEFORE-VIDEO AFTER: You should be able to hear that the dullness is gone. AFTER-VIDEO As per previous post, mid-cab panels, seat boxes and dash are...

[after]

Photos of rear tub and second row... Got a before and after video when I did the second row seat foot well panel (very scientific). This should give you an idea of how the 3M stuff works. Description will have more info. Will post link after photos. [BEFORE]

Update: I have removed all trim and laid out the Superflex in the rear rub and second row foot wells, I have also covered this area (tub only, not side panels) with 7mm PE Underlay foam (£18 for about 15sq.m -yes I know it's flammable). Massive difference in terms of road noise, but can't post...

I would be careful with the app, some don't read over 100dB, and most of the free ones are garbage for providing any useful numbers. I took a reading in a quiet room (as far as I could tell): 50db average, 62db peak. That's the baseline I'm working to.

Managed to get some numbers for sound levels using Decibel 10th -admittedly this app isn't the best way to do it. I stuck the phone to top of centre cubby box and drove from 0-70mph: Max. reading: 102 dB Average reading: 92 dB Will be proofing some panels tomorrow, so will do same test after...

I'm no expert, but I reckon they'd be good for heat insulation, but poor for acoustic insulation. If I understand the issue correctly, what you want to do for acoustics is either: 1. Stiffen the panel, which means you increase the resonant frequency - this takes the vibration (hopefully) above...

Are you looking to apply the fibreglass to the roof directly, like a wet lay-up? Little more info on the "Superflex" which is actually a 3M product in disguise: 3M? Sound Deadening Pads suppress noise and vibration. 19.7 inch squares. Alm.

I've got a nasty Corsa shaped dent on the PS arch thanks to a t-boning, baseball cap wearing tool. He managed to bend the radius arm by about 2degrees which meant it sounded like there was a squirrel living under the bonnet. Corsa was a flat-pack write-off, meanwhile I drove home. This is...

And Superflex photos...

I've seen the Fatmat and Dynamat stuff, but I couldn't justify the cost given size of 110 interior -although I realise you only need around 40-60% panel coverage to change the resonant frequency of any panel, this would still cost around £400. To boot, I'd sooner not worry about tearing...

Have just bought some non-dynamat sound proofing material that isn't noisekiller for the 110. Thought mayaswell do it while I've got it in pieces. Spec is something called Superflex, supplied by Wayside Adhesives. Anyone heard of 'em? Will post review and before/after video for full...

Just a post to warn people that Admiral grp (and child companies -Elephant etc.) are eagerly conducting fraud audits to check any and all driver and vehicle details. Necessary to provide the following docs: Main driver license (both parts, all sides) Named driver license(s) (both parts, all...

Thanks for replies. Replaced pads, reused shims already in there, and changed pins & springs. Worth noting that the pads did not come with pins or springs. Decent branded pads don't need Cu grease, as most have a tacky coating these days. Cheers, Alm.

Cheers - that makes my life a little easier then. Means I've more time rewiring the fusebox. Alm.