Take the stop solenoid off, remove the plunger, put the solenoid back on. The plunger is pulled up by the solenoid so can get sticky and not open properly. If it starts and runs properly you will have to stall the engine to get it to stop.

If you get lots of diesel from the lift pump and are not sucking air in then maybe.. Dodgy connection to stop solenoid? Needs 12v to keep the solenoid open while you drive. If the wire or connection is wobbly then the solenoid will keep trying to stop the engine.....

Put the Landy in gear, chock the wheels and take the handbrake off. Slide under it, grab the propshaft and twist back and forth. Anything more that a little bit of movement at the UJ is too much. Listen for clunks and rattles while you do this.

My guess would be worn or broken prop shaft UJs. The extra weight of the trailer could have hastened the demise. Have you had a look underneath and felt for play? Would probably give the same symptoms when rolling though.....unless they need drive to show the wobble.

Yep...was just going to say that. Bristol 4S7. So 4 stage compression (275bar max) 7cfm of free air. So about 4-5cfm when compressed. I already have a Hamworthy BP6 with a Bristol 3S10 pump until. Unfortunately this means mine is better than yours for my purpose......my search goes on.

Good question! It's been in my mother in laws garden from before she was my mother in law. How would I know? Would any measurements help?

Ah ha! That's more like what I need to hear! A few more questions before I drive over with money though I am afraid. I can't find anything about Siebe Gorman compressors online, nada, nilch. This is either because they didn't sell a lot, thus no support. Or, more likely, they badge engineered...

Yep...know that. But trying to fill a 12l twinset to 230bar means 5520l of air. If the fill rate is 100l/min we are looking at nearly an hour to fill. I have a 6cfm diving compressor I am looking for something bigger....12cfm at 300bar preferably but 10cfm at 230bar would do. I also wondered...

Any idea what sort of CFM it produces? Are they repackable filter towers?

I looked into the bulb hole on the back of the instrument. There's a green plastic dome in there. So I drilled it out.....better now.

Clearing the mother in laws garden and we have a modified Series 1 bonnet, a Series 1 tub with roof and a rolled Series II roof and sides. Free to whoever wants to dig them out......

My dad being 83 has cataracts and glaucoma. The hospital were worried about his peripheral vision after the last cataract op so they sent him for the DVLA eye test. He passed and said it was actually easier than the hospital eye sight test. Never say never.....

The pictures did when I clicked on them.......

Did mine a couple of years ago....still working great. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/headlamp-wiring-upgrade.293661/#post-3644356

It's all on the web.... https://www.gov.uk/change-vehicle-details-registration-certificate/changes-youll-need-to-update

Mine was a truck cab and is now a double cab. Was done before I got it but as far as I know the V5 has the appropriate section filled in and sent off.

Many years ago I had a whining noise from my SerIII. Turned out to be cracks in a new clutch plate. The whine would happen when putting the clutch down and you could almost play a tune by jiggling the pedal......

Looks like nobody else is going to reply so I will throw my hat in the ring..... Lot of people will tell you to buy a Warn and only a Warn but I have a Winchmax 13000. Have had it for nearly two years, used it lots and had no trouble at all. It came with two wireless controllers and a wired...

Have you tried the Landrover Supermarket in Speke? You can contact them via the website lrparts.com. They've been around for a long time so I assume know how to weld a Landy.......

I get a phuft, phuft, phuft while the engine is running. The noise is coming from the junction of the head gasket and engine block right at the back of the engine in the middle facing the firewall. One phuft for every stroke of cylinder 4. I can feel the gas escape and the engine block seems to...