Yep, one of the easiest jobs you can do Just changed mine at the weekend. A good time to lube up the sliding pins and pad shims with Copperslip, also check caliper piston seal etc.

Could be the exhaust shield or even the Crank Pulley (another thread on this recently)

Rover Ron sells a Sunergy 2E which gives more torque and no BHP increase for this very purpose

This is why the 16" rim is better, coz you can use a taller sided tyre that has more "give" and thus a softer ride Certainly better for tackling a less smooth surface The 15" rims make for an even better offroad tyre sidewall size

Approx 350 to 370 miles

An Auto will always consume more fuel, when I bought my TD4 Auto, I religously checked the mileage over a period of 2 years, tank to tankful. My daily 20 mile round trip to work which is best described as urban - doesn't have heavy traffic, but includes a lot of roundabouts and traffic lights...

That may be true of the TDi and the XEDi but the newer common rail diesels such as the TD5 in the Disco and the TD4 BMW engine in the Freebie are more refined modern units that - If I remember correctly - are not suited to ECO fuels such as recovered cooking oil. Modern fuel refineries supply...

Here's a link to when mine went a couple of years ago http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-crank-pully-clatter-66563.html It has been ok since fixed. Needs a lot of torque, and often the noise is caused by the splashguard rubbing

Yep, ... the propshaft My guess it needs the complete 4WD system working so the TC understands. You've taken half of the drive system away.

It is surprisingly easy, caliper swings away and disc held on by 2 countersunk screws - standard vented replacements with pads is about £45 for the pair

The ratios will be different. IIRC - the TD4 got the revised ratio that minimised the VCU damage

The KwikFit fekkers put 4 new tyres on my girlfriends car and then failed it on the MOT for having them fitted the wrong way round :doh: ..... all on the same day in the same depot !

I'm afraid there is no easy way, that's why they by-passed it. Fair chance this was one of a number of issues that made them sell the vehicle.

Could be an air lock - may be as simple as bleeding

Could be your heater matrix in the cabin

You probably need a RH cable as well I seem to remember that I had to back mine off a helluva long way to put the new cables on

Has the outer end seated correctly in the drum backplate?

There is a big difference in the cables - particularly the price - for the 2001 models. You have to buy according to the VIN No. rather than the Year My 2000 TD4 takes cables that are normally listed for 2001 onwards, if I ask for them as a 2000, I get the wrong ones - It's VIn No. 1Axxxxxx...

Driveshaft

Cleaning out that EGR pipe may well have made a noticable difference, but I don't see how changing to the cyclone type crankase breather would have given the result you experience