PS - Did you check your loom at the ECU end?

Lots and lots of discussions with various mechanics..... Basically I know for a fact now that I have an open circuit fault on cylinder 1 (injector 1) which only happens when the engine is fully warm. I have it on good authority that this is almost definately an injector fault, from his...

nice one - cheers! will give them a bell tomorrow. The Deeside one's quite near to where I work. I've been told there's a guy on the A41 near Bromborough on the Wirral that does Land Rovers? Can't find anything online though?

You may have seen my other thread about my thoughts that my injector loom was leaking. I took out the ECU and there was no oil at that end... Anyway - long story short - It's been into my local mechanic, who had it on his system and Inector no.1 is showing an open circuit fault that reappears...

Just checked the ECU side of the loom ahead of ordering a replacement and there's no oil there at all! :eek: So it's not oil leaking into the ecu plug that's causing the misfire!! What else can I check myself?

Oh dear! Even if it turns out to be something else, my injector loom obviously needs replacing anyway. I wonder if the new one will leak with time :confused: Check out this page, it's very good - tells you everything you need to know!

sussed it. The 'loom' at fault isn't the one I've just disconnected. That's the main engine loom. The one I need to replace is under the rocker cover. I then need to allow the engine loom to 'drain' of oil by cleaning it several times until it's fine. Crap.

Just had a good look... Took the engine cover off and around the injector loom plug it's very oily. Removed the plug and although the connectors inside didn't seem to be swimming in oil, the plug itself was well oiled. Cleaned it up as best I could and sprayed some wd40 onto the connector...

For the first time ever today - had a good 30 min run to work but when I stopped, the car was shuddering and making a more tractor-like noise than usual. Cylinder misfire! Revving in neutral didn't shift it. Stopped and started the engine and it cleared straight away. Coming home tonight, same...

Hi Mate, If it's gone down slowly, don't worry - When you power up on your return, it will just re-inflate and it's fine to drive. You can then (at your convenience) spray it with some soapy water to prove it's got a leak and then replace the bag (easy job). No 'immediate' worrys though...

12.8 Volts :( Good... Because I don't need a new battery. Slightly bad because it blows a bit of a hole in my theory. I still think it's the solenoids and I will be looking to test and subsequently replace these. But why does it only happen when the suspension adjusts with the engine off...

Fair enough - I did wonder! The voltage was from the built in meter on my ameteur radio rig which is connected straight to the battery. I'll stick a digital meter on the terminals later and see what it says! I still reckon it will be low though.....

Right, some of you may recall that I have an ongoing suspension problem where both sides deflate sproadically, when the car is left for several hours. Without repeating myself, I worked out that it was down to the valves in the compressor not closing properly, as opposed to holes in the air...

Had my 'box oil and filters changed last week - apart from making a great difference to the running of the car (speed, noise, more free-revving with less lag), I can report that it will now lock-down at 53 MPH before it gets to half-way on the temp (as I had previously reported). Last night...

I'm on a roll now... Stedall (Vehicle Fittings) Limited Handle & Lock Sets

So that's where I was going wrong! Got it! Ing.-büro Zimmermann GmbH - Katalogteile CHEERS! :D

Will do when they're finshed ;)

Next question - any UK suppliers?????????!!

K'in ACE!! Thanks!!!!!!!!!! :p

Anyone know where I can get handles/locks like these? I've spent ages googling but can't find them. I have everything else for my drawers, just not the handles! Hope you can help. James