I know you can change a MSB for a NNN and have the security and injector codes reflashed. You can also use an Auto NNN in a manual, but not the other way round. The NNN ones usually fetch at least £250 s/hand so probably best to get a warranted s/head MSB T

I stand by my original reply - For now at least :) TONY

Disconnect as many pipes as you can and flush away (direction does not matter) just keep low pressure. You can easily flush: - Through header tank Inlet to heater matrix Outlet from heater matrix Into cylinder head through elbow on RHS of block Through Top Hose Through radiator...

Air lock or partial blockage of the heater matrix. TONY

Sniff tests are not always conclusive especially on the TD5 - You will need to get the engine up to full operating temperature by ideally going on a good run and then drive to the garage and get them to do the test literally as soon as you arrive to give the best chance of an accurate...

They don't upset the airbags. There are a few suppliers, but these are the main ones. Towbars, Front push tow bars, towing brackets specialists from Watling Engineers | Front Push Towbars TONY

Fuel pump

If it is over pressurizing and blowing it out of the tank then you will see coolant around the header tank and wetness below the overflow pipe - It will be very obvious. Radweld may have caused a blockage so give it a good flush with the hose. Just flush all entry / exit points with low...

My personal experiences with Radweld and K-Seal is that TD5's don't like it and it usually fouls the thermostat and causes the car to overheat. So it's back to basics. They do take some bleeding and once you have the heater blowing hot on tickover you can be pretty certain you have bled it...

Genuine from Land Rover OE (also acceptable) from independent supplier such as Paddocks, John Craddock, Island 4x4 etc Aftermarket ones best avoided IMO T

Could be injector harness. Have you checked for oil contamination in the ECU plugs? T

Genuine ones would be my advice for such critical parts

You should be able to compress them fairly easily. They should not feel hard or like the rubber has 'gone off' T

You could download a copy of RAVE - Its all in there. Undo the bleedscrew in the top hose Pull the header tank up out of its mounting and raise it 4" Add 50/50 mix of OAT coolant and water until it flows nicely out of the bleedscrew with no air bubbles Check for leaks Bleed it a bit...

That is not my understanding having just done my own HG replacement T

Indeed. Head Gasket thickness is relative to piston height hence why you should always replace it like for like T

When they crack on #1 it is usually visible to the naked eye. Mine all looked good, but there was no way I was going to do all that work without getting a 2nd opinion in the form of a 24 hour pressure test. Glad you are sorted T

... and make sure its sequential multi-point injection. I have had several of my fleet vehicles converted by Ray at Northern Autogas in Liversedge. Worth the trip. You are looking at around £1800 for the conversion T

Did you not get the head pressure tested and skimmed? I got a head fitting kit from Turner Engineering. Remember you will need far more than just the head gasket itself T

Yeah its a real PITA that you can't just do the bearings like normal cars!! A new hub will cost between £165 (OE) and £250 (Genuine) depending where you get it. You will also need a fitting kit. There is also an argument that they are better changed in axle pairs. T