Personally mine didn't need cleaning inside the chambers. very little dirt gets in there. Any problems seem to arise from the degradation of the rubber 'o' rings and surface muck around the seals. If you've got to go in. just make sure the woolen buds are securely fastened to the stick.

I'm a novice but i did mine a few months ago without any problems. One tip i would give would be not to use cotton wool buds to clean anything out. On my first plunge and twist the bud came off the end of the stick deep in the heart of the block. It took me ages to blow into the correct hole...

Thanks for this.

The gasket sound the most likely. TBH i didnt know the housing was a separate item and bolted on i thought the housing was cast as part of the block.

Yes it is higher as its dripping onto the bend of both cooler pipes. 'Topographic filterr housing' ?????? whats that. I'll have to get a mirror under to say for certain

Do any of you know of instances where the filter housing is cracked? Its difficult to see but i seem to have a small leak somewhere underneath mine. It's definitely not the seal where the cooler pipes enter the block. Thats bone dry. Its not leaking from the top and running down either. :confused:

Its weird that its on decelaration as well. If you work it out post the answer.

I've recently posted on this but my drone was at a lower speed, about 50 ish. It may be something as small as tyre pressures. Ive tinkered with different pressures and the drone gets better and worse with adjustment. Is it on 18" wheels?

Thanks all. I think i'll change them anyway to make sure.

Could this be the cause of a slight drone i've noticed when doing about 50mph. I've doube checked and treble checked the pressures and played around with them but its always been there. More importantly could it have damaged the auto box in any way.

With all the other things i've been looking at i never really checked my tyre sizes. I noticed today that my rear tyres are 255,60 R18's while the front are 255,55 R18's. Is this within tolerances and would it have been done for a reason or mistake?

Doesn't look right. Have i spelt fowling wrong

I haven't seen the petrols, but i thought i had the same problem when i went to change my glow plugs. It turned out to be the socket fowling on the head as it was such a tight fit. Bought the correct socket and they flew out. As i said i dont know if its that tight on a petrol but worth checking.

Thanks. I'll get someone to keep it at 1500 rpm and have a poke about. Nothing obvious there though.

Can anyone throw any light on a drone that only seems to come in at about 1500 rpm. Its not the running gear because its also there when stationary. 100rpm either side its gone:confused2: By the way it a 2.5dhse with 120,000

Just checking but have you actually checked the bulbs are not blown. I'm only saying this because a lot of clever manufacturers (not sure if LR are one of them) actually feed a lower voltage to brake lights when rear positional lights are blown as a back up. When you look from behind they appear...

Thanks both. There's an independant not too far away. I'll pay him a visit and get a diagnostic.

I've searched a number of threads and have a number of options but whats the most likely. My 2000 dhse is blowing hot and cold out of different vents. I have completed 'o' ring work recently and also sprayed each blend motor with ptfe lubricant. The flaps seem to open the correct vents, its just...

I'm thinking its a re set as i recently changed my o rings and while i could see them i opened up the two right hand side blend motors and sprayed them with ptfe lubricant. They looked fine with no tooth wear.

I have a similar problem. It goes away for the rest of the day and i note that the air comes out of each correct vent when i push the respective button. However, the there are different temperatures coming out of the vents. ie the left one is hot and the right one is cold. Is this a sticky blend...