I do like a free fix! (You do need the right size drill bits however)

Hi Arctic, Thanks. I haven’t had the car that long. Only a few months. I’ve been working through testing bits on the engine in order to reduce it’s smoke levels and this fix was just something I found and needed fixing. I was suspecting the low fuel pressure from the HP pump would be giving...

That looks useful. Thanks.

Thanks interesting and useful input. You were right about not much money. Found a combined vacuum and turbo boost guage on ebay that I can use for both and install in the car later. Good result. £9. https://ebay.to/2PaAQxM

Thanks, I’ll have a look around for one.

I’ve fitted the synergy2, but it only alters the fuel rail pressure and MAF readings, so doesn’t directly drive the boost solenoid. It relies on the ECU to adjust that as it seems fit. My ECU doesn’t seem to drive the solenoid enough. By powering the solenoid directly you can get more boost it...

It is a bit of a bug*er to get the o ring in. I had to swap what was in there for a narrower one as no way was it going in. Might stick it on YouTube when I have time.

There was indeed! It was because it was the first time that I had opened or fixed one of those FBH’s. I enjoyed working it out. It’s still working as well!

Worked through lots of td4 engine faults and no smoke now..... but

Having just found low fuel pressure caused by worn hp fuel pump regulator seals on my Freelander td4 2004, I thought it worth sharing my ‘fix it’ video, in case it inspires others on some DIY which is relevant to this topic:

I’m not sure on the source of the master cylinder. I suspect it’s original. I suspect even the proper ones just don't have enough range in their movement to cope with any small amount of air or wear. This mod just allows more range of pedal movement. Fortunately on the freelander the pedal...

Not sure if it will help on your car but this is how I recently got my FBH working on my freelander. I guess the fbh is similar. Quite a lot of test/strip/test/repeats but it now is working reliably:

Thread is a bit old, but I thought this alternative mod might be useful as I see quite a few people saying they have a low bite point on the clutch and they cant get the last bit of air out by bleeding (same as mine). After this mod the clutch bite position is perfect, it’s the same principle...

On my car that wouldn't rev, it was just the position of the crank sensor that was the problem. The o ring wasn’t pushed into the recess so the sensor wasn’t flat against the block, so it couldn’t pick up higher frequency signals.

Coming back to the original white smoke question. I have this at 2-2500 rpm. When I force the turbo to add more air by supplying 12v to the boost control solenoid it is a lot better. I would prefer not to have to make my own boost controller, but I suppose that is an option. Next to check is...

I went off on a bit of a tangent from the original conversation there. Saw FBH comments about exhaust and being faulty, so thought I’d add that. I should have checked the original question first.

This should help explain the FBH

You can alter the boost by driving the signal to the boost solenoid manually. I would also like to know what range of boost is normal and maximum allowed.

I’ve eliminated crank/turbo oil as a source of smoke. Now I just have white smoke when holding the revs in neutral at 2500 rpm. If I force the turbo control solenoid to come on (cut the control wire and ground the one going to the solenoid so its filly engaged) full vacuum goes to the turbo...

Bought a Freelander TD4 as a fixing project. Slowly working through the faults! Youtube channel comeinhandynow