No problem Ianada thanks for the effort, My drivers door is the one that went few months ago, its holding with the brake cable fix just now, but I know the end is going to ping off it at some point because i didn't feel the joint at the end was very good. Thanks, I'll have a look and see what...

Is it this one here Ianda ? Linky Methos :)

Ashcroft Transmissions Test works well, no spinning about in the car in mud, and no doubt as to whether its working or not.. AT method : 1) Jack up one rear wheel 2) Put a bar through the rear prop UJ and try to turn it. 3) It should turn slowly with resistance even a good one will be quite...

I had a hell of a time getting my solder to "bond" to the stainless steel cable...any suggestions ? I used flux etc...with a blow torch... Methos.

Thanks for the time and all the info ianda, I'll give that a tackle when the weather clears up... It Tilts and slides back perfectly, but stops halfway on closing and sounds like a gear jumping, a little push and it goes back to the tilts, then sticks there another little push on the lift arm...

Will do, I'm waiting on a length of 16mm pipe coming, local sources would only sell it by the 50m drum :eek: all the rest had nothing close to that size only the little 5/10mm etc. Watch out for a post "Heater Mod works great" followed quickly by "Anyone got a cheap IRD and a pair of thermal...

Was me question, not how do you do it etc, I was looking for some first hand experience lshort/ong term effects etc...Never mind......... Em...thats a link to the same page i asked about, where on there does it say hey i tried that and it did/didn't fook my ird.. ? A simple "yes it works" "no...

Has anyone here tried the heater mod from this webpage ? Tried a search but mostly leaky matrix etc, couldn't find any o' you guys mentioning or trying it... ? Methos.

How did your repair these Ianda ? I've got the same problem. :rolleyes: Methos.

I think all the L-Series diesels are cambelts, only the TD4's have "simplex" chains (if its not rattling your a happy camper) and don't need replacing like a Rubber belt does.. Your's is the same model/year/etc as my baby so I'd bet good money its a cambelt, just done all 3 of mine, Cambelt and...

You haven't crushed/crimped a brake line..when the rock hit ?

Have you got a Linky for that Boxer ? Thanks, Methos.

Theres a guide Here for the 1.8 timing belt change if it helps any in the process Austen I just did mine on the L-Series, I replaced the Tensioner and Idler on mine, but i was at 97K, the tensioner was servicable but the idler was fooked, dry and grinding and starting to wobble very badly, I...

*Points finger and snigger's* :D:D:D:D Glad ya got it going :)

Removing the prop takes the diff and vcu out of the equation, so only the gearbox and ird are left, if whurring is still there then it probably is the ird, If the whurring goes away its a diff problem... Methos

I think it was 2001 were the first to be mod'ed if memory serves...

A Loose sensor at one of the wheels perhaps, or dirt or both :rolleyes: Methos.

Thats just the rubber bushes that support it, its common for them to go US, if there is a fault with the VCU (around £700) its not repairable, if its rolling free thats not so bad, but if its seized then your IRD (£900-£1200) and read diff (£675) will soon get borked too...

Plugging in a mobile/sat nav etc won't do any harm, they mean these little kettles etc that ya get now days.. Theres an auxiliary socket beside the drivers seat too.. if that helps. Methos

No offense but the first bit makes the second bit seem hard to believe as only someone who likes dropping notes down a drain would touch a petrol with anything shorter than a barge pole, even if it came with a free LR mechanic in the boot... :p Reverse switch under the gear stick cover most...