So i tried adjusting the master cylinder and it made the brakes lock up completely with no travel. Do i have the wrong master cylinder as i read in the manual the series 3 was fitted with two types. Alternatively the only thing i could think to do would be to cut more thread on the master...

Is this what you mean the gap shown on the master cylinder ? To adjust this do i have to bleed/drain the system again ?

I will have a look today my freind

Posted a picture here to explain

Please tell this will be fine I have had these brakes apart so many times trying to do this I don't think I can bring myself to do take them apart again

The master cylinder rod was sat back as far as possible, like I say after I did this I was able to adjust each of the snail cams. I unbolted the sensor above the pedal and wound the screw within the pedal fully in so I had maximum travel

So today I removed the proper shaft and old transmission drum and internals. Cleaned everything necessary and installed new gaskets and oil seal. New pads and drum. Now the old pads were filthy and covered in oil and I have had an oil leak coming from somewhere... This could be it. The Haynes...

So today was a sucess, i removed the sensor above the brake so the pedal had a massive amount of distance it was now able to travel. Didn't seem to make a difference, i struggled to get one of the drums on even when the snail adjuster was at its lowest setting it was almost like the pads are...

Thank you for the response mate, yeah its non servo. New pads, cylinders, springs, master cylinder and pipes. Yeah fingers crossed its the adjusters, may have a crack at it tommorow

So after three weeks of order the wrong size bolts for the master cylinder...turns out they are imperial. I bled the brakes today and upon trying out the brakes the pedal is really hard, it moves down maybe an inch or two with giving it some welly. The brakes work so in comparison to last time...

It was a bit discoloured when i drained the old fluid. Not black, just like new engine oil i suppose.

Yeah i replaced all the drum cylinders too, except one as i ****ed the thread up on the new one. Swearing moment. Serviced the old one and its fine. Like i say i will give these new methods you've spoken about a try and see what happens.

I have not tried pushrod yet. Going to fit new master cylinder once its arrived, drain and refill system. If that doesnt help i will adjust pushrod then failing that try clamping the flexis , is the idea with clamping the flexis to see if there is a particular drum causing the lack of pressure...

Hi steve thanks i would never do chassis work again unless the whole vehicle was stripped. Dirty old work. As every bolt you cant see or get too, is rounded and rusted solid. yeah the springs are on the back of the shoes and the longer one has the long end of the spring attached to where the...

Obviously i mean turning by hand. Yeah i took the cap off and inspected the master cylinder. No leaks evident though, so i guess the next step is to drain the system, install a new master cylinder and rebleed ? Thanks for the reply also

hey guys, hope you are all well. Progress on my land rover has come on massive amounts the last few weeks. All rust. Proofing, welding, priming and painting done on the chassis. Runs sweet ass a nut minus the oil drip. I have spent the last 3 days over hauling the brake system, new pads, drums...

Hey guys i bled the main pump, cracked an injector and within 5 seconds she started ! God that is a great feeling. If you both message me your address i will send you some beers to say thanks !

Okay i shall try it this weekend or tomorrow if i get time. Fingers crossed. Thank you very much fir your response

Okay gents after an extremely cold, windy and stressful evening. I rebuilt the lift pump. Turns out the pump mechanism wasn't engaging and therefore not creating a vaccum. After reconnecting everything ( sigh ) there is now fuel getting to the filter. Feels like there is a lot of pressure and...

I will inspect it asap. Regarding the pump arm hitting the cam lobe does the engine need to be at any sort of TDC or do i just inspect visually that the cam lobe is far away as possible before installing pump ?