No, I used my foot pump... those nuts are exactly 100psi. I used a spanner on the tyres and then with a moley grip hammered them up to 100Nm.

So team, got the wheels on today with the proper steel nuts and lockers from LR Parts. They fit lovely and all torqued up nicely to 100psi and all wheels (Insa Turbo) set to 100psi. I get a little bit of road whine as you do with such a chunky tyre, but not noticeable on a Defender anyway. Ride...

Personally, I always use a torque wrench on wheel nuts. People don't appreciate just how much force you can put on a nut when you use a large lever, and they tend to overestimate how tight wheel nuts need to be. There's nothing worse than having to change a wheel and putting your back out...

WIPAC have been doing lights since I was a bairn. Used to be on all the rally motors on the TV along with Hellas. They're generally a good brand I think, but time will tell with these NAS lights. 2 year warranty.

Yeah, that's what I decided in the end up. Originals are back on until the new nuts arrive. I surprise myself sometimes at juat how sensible I am. Cheers

I just bought a set of these ones: https://www.getoffroad.com/land-rover/defender-parts/lighting/rear-lighting/g05-005-003-nas-defender-reverse-clear-led-round-lamp Look around the sight you can buy all the lamps individually or in a full set. They supply a relay with indicators to correct the...

That makes sense and explains why some alloy wheel nuts have a completely flat base. I found some nuts for sale which are chamfered and labelled "suitable for steel or alloy wheels". I reckon I'll be fine, certainly for a short while.

On searching further I found one chap saying that if they were the alloy nuts that are chamfered at the bottom (which these are) then you can use them as the chamfer will center the wheel ok, but obviously just not recommended as the correct type should always be used when safety's involved.

Just to let you all know that I completed the job earlier this week. New turbo in, bolted up with new gaskets and nuts, all hoses and intercooler flushed out with petrol and dried off, oil and filters changed. She pulls like a train now, so I'm very pleased. 75 miles down and no visible leaks...

Guys, I am putting a nice set of steelies onto my Defender in place of the alloys and when I went to fit them I realised the black steel nuts I ordered are the wrong size. Will have to send them back. Now the alloy bolts have a bit of a collar on them as the alloy wheel is thicker. While they...

So... alas people I have failed to live up to Land Rover standards. I started drilling the bolt with a carbide drill and it is clearly not a quick operation. I didn't want to break the drill, so taking my time and using a slow drill speed I drilled a 2mm deep hole in about 20 minutes... I've...

Thanks for such a detailed reply Tim, appreciate you sharing your experience.

Yup, I'll drill out in stages and try to retap. I might give the extractor a quick go at the bigger diameter as its unlikely to break. Will update here once I'm done. All I wanted to do was change the bloody oil...

Yes, the bolt head has sheared off with about 5mm of shank. So I have the rest of the bolt shank stuck in the casing. tottot is right, if the extractor snaps then I'm really shagged. I cant decide whether tobtry it or just drill out the full 6mm and bolt it.

The bolt is sheared around 10% of the way down the thread, so I have the bolt head and a bit of shank, and maybe two threads. So it's unusable and there's nothing to get an extractor onto. I've put the cap back on the filter housing and the turbo is out at the moment, so I have clear access to...

Despite plus gas and being as careful as a Swiss watchmaker I managed to shear one of the bolts. I've surfed the forums and there's a number of suggestions. The bolt shank is seized hard so will an extractor still work? Best option to my mind is to just drill out fully and pass an M6 bolt...

Surely the OP deserves some kind of award for starting a thread with over 5,000 replies?

Got the intercooler out today - took me about 2 hours (see separate thread). So the inlet pipes from the turbo have a lot of oil in them. There isn't very much in the intercooler itself, just a trickle appeared when I held it up.Inlet manifold seems clean. No sign of any metal anywhere, so I'm...

Just wanted to post and confirm that you 100% absolutely can remove the intercooler on a TD5 Defender with aircon without removing the radiator. It's not difficult, but there are two pitfalls: the slam bar is held in with studs into a captive bolt with a bolt on the other side. You need to...

It's likely that in the not too distant I'll fit a VGT as part of an overall performance upgrade. I am hoping some standard (new) 15mm steel nuts will do the job until then.