If it's a 3 door, the roof-off sensing microswitch is probably a bit loose and being activated by slamming the drivers door. Unlatch the roof and pull it up and back slightly, put some tape over the switch (shoulder height about halfway up the diagonal, drivers side) then refit and relatch the roof.

It's important to remember that the original audio head/cd unit won't operate unless a compatible clock/display is fitted.

The tailgate door handle uses two small return springs on the press-plate to ensure that the micro-switch operates correctly. These springs tend to corrode and eventually fall off causing the sort of problem you describe.

Probably broken wires in the harness between the tailgate and the car body. Constant flexing as the tailgate is opened/closed causes this eventually. My guess would be that the main earth cable is broken as hardly anything is working.

"Today, for the first time in a month or so, I lifted the bonnet on my 04 reg Freelander TD4 ":confused:

'Haynes' would appear to be 'losing the plot' yes some manufacturers do in fact feed the clutch hydraulics with fluid via the brake fluid reservoir but not Land Rover.

We had similar on one of our TD4s, tightening all front subframe mounting bolts sorted the problem.

Hi, A search re:'TD4 ancillary belt' should get good results. Also: Change the aircon drive belt also to avoid having to remove the ancillary belt again in the future. Ensure the vehicle is well supported on an axle stand. Obtain the longest 24mm combination spanner available, ours is...

WD40 is a truly amazing general purpose lubricant/moisture dispersant which I use a lot, but true penetrating oils e.g PLUS GAS, ZX1 etc have the ability to be absorbed within the corroded metals over time.

A search will reveal unfortunate occasions when TD4 cylinder heads were scrapped due to damage caused whilst attempting to remove corroded injectors. A post by 'MING the merciless' some time ago showed that water dripping from leaking washer pipe connections and under bonnet condensation caused...

Undo the Torx studs with a couple of turns on each one, gradually they draw up the saddle lifting the injector out of the head. When putting the studs back in the torque is only 7ftlbs on both the studs and the nuts.

You also need to unscrew the torx bolts/studs anti clockwise to release the injector.

If an injector 'leaks back' more than a dribble during the usual test then it can cause non starting problems. If you soak around the base of the injector with penetrating oil for a few hours it can make removal a lot easier.

We simply open circuit the horn feed with a switch for use on ferries etc.

If you can prove that the three cables between the ECU and the HP pressure sensor are O.K and that the ECU is otherwise working normally i.e the low pressure pump runs briefly after turning on ignition and the MIL light illuminates briefly after ignition on then it may be that part of the ECU...

Yes, with the ignition 'on', the ECU supplies 5v to many of the vehicle sensors and the returning signals are a proportion of that reference voltage this is how an ECU knows what's going on around the vehicle.

Cam sensor harness voltage readings are about right, and the sensor itself would not give any readings whilst disconnected. I wouldn't advise connecting the R75 to the TD4. Regarding the green harness connector showing no voltages: With ignition on you should find at least 5volts on...

I think the 'tuning box' has caused the high pressure to increase way beyond normal limits and the rubber seal has acted like a safety valve when it blew out. I imagine that the new seal has now also blown out. Although you've taken off the 'tuning box' I think the HP pressure is still very...

"When it died I think it broke that small rubber seal again, which is when the mechanic said it was the injector pump that needed replaced. What else could cause this small rubber seal to break " Excessive high pressure?

"Should the car fire up if I disconnect the leak back hose from the top of the injector that I suspect is faulty?" The leak back prevents starting because the injectors can't develop sufficient injection pressure so disconnecting won't help, previous posters have briefly crimped the return...