The transmission set up at the front end is quite complex and odd noises can be very difficult to track. I know from recent experience that a noisy wheel bearing whilst having no free play when checked, can sound like the IRD is about to give up. M&S tyres also can develop faults which may...

' after running it for a short while the crank pully then decides to fall into two pieces ,this was replaced with a new one, the engine started again but still clattering , i gave it a few revs thinking do or die , and bang that was the end of that,,, a snapped crank, ' I can't help thinking...

Hi, I also took this approach in the early days of TD4 ownership and spent many hours trawling the forum and that time was very well spent and has undoubtedly saved me both a lot of cash and time and allowed me to fully enjoy this awesome vehicle.

You'll have to climb in the back over the rear seats and get the tailgate interior trim off then do a search on here re: manual release of tailgate, it's been covered many times. Once the tailgate is open you can check for faulty wiring at the door jamb or faulty tailgate lock actuator.

Brilliant feedback on this fix if only more people took the time to do this. many thanks.

Given the service history and the fact that the crankshaft is adequately supported by the adjacent main bearings I would suspect partial failure of the crankshaft pulley vibration damper or failure of the journal casting at this point although it seems unlikely that a flawed casting would...

Agreed: You have a low signal output from one of the ABS sensors, this tends to confuse the system into believing that the associated wheel has locked and the system therefore releases and applies braking effort to the caliper/ brake cylinder at high frequency in order to reduce the possibility...

The job is easy if get the hub off. Buy 2 new bolts from LR, about £6.50. Get some serious heat to the old bolts and they will drive out. Remember that one day those old bolts will have to be removed to change a wheel bearing or strut so you might as well do it now.

Re-tightening all the wishbone/ front cross-member bolts often sorts this problem.

Don't even go there, you'll only end up buffing them every two weeks. Tell her it needs new bumpers at £2k and never mind, put the kettle on.

'do I need to remove the hub? Or is there something I've missed?' Reply With Quote This tells me you should really seek professional help.

This a major undertaking even in a fully equipped workshop using two post lift etc. Please ensure that the vehicle is fully supported on the chassis rails before venturing underneath. p.s: bjs are ball joints.

Agreed: A length of flexi does the job and gets rid of all that useless weight which reduces ground clearance at the rear end.

^ Totally agree. The best LR independents are run by guys who have been through this dealer treadmill and have realised that they can do the job better and maintain customer confidence.

Even when 'copper-slip' is applied to the ABS sensors during fitting they subsequently resist all efforts to remove them by twisting and pulling and then most people resort to 'Mole-grips' or hub removal to hammer them out which generally destroys the sensor.

Flapping then thudding and now not turning? I would remove the ancillary drive belts and try it again with jump leads. If no improvement then I would assume that there is an internal engine fault.

LR advise removing the ABS sensor from the hub assembly whilst the wheel bearing is being replaced to avoid damage to the internal inductive coil due to the inevitable shocks travelling through the hub during disassembly etc. The sensitivity of the ABS sensor may be reduced causing a spurious...

There is a temp sensor behind the front grille which should activate the FBH at 5deg C or less. 1.5 miles seems about right for coolant temp rise compared to our TD4s.

Is there really any need for the extravagant showrooms we now see? Whilst there are people with more money than sense this situation will continue. A peep into the workshops behind these facades shows that the people who actually do the work are not enjoying the best working conditions.

Further thoughts: Relatively easy to prove if there is an ABS system problem. Disconnect the ABS sensor two pin plug in the ABS harness from the affected wheel, this will of course give the 'hat trick' of warning lights on the dash but more importantly this will disable ABS system operation, now...