Thanks for the quick response Wammers. I eternally regret not doing enough research before I bought my P38. I'm hoping not to make the same mistake again... I don't mind paying to maintain a car properly, I tend to keep my cars for 6-7 years so aim to look after them, but my P38 took the ****!!

Hi all. My 2000 P38 4.6 V8 has just died, and I'm looking at an L322 TDV8 2007/8 to replace it. I've read a lot on here (using the search!) about general things to look out for, but most advice seems to point towards issues earlier than the cars I'm looking at - particularly gearbox issues on...

Hi all. I'm just looking to replace my (just deceased) P38 with a 2007/8 L322 TDV8. My question relates to the front grille of the L322.... Bearing in mind that I'm only looking at TDV8s, I've quite a chunk of time looking on Autotrader, some of them have a grey plastic grille, and some have...

When I did mine just over a year ago, quite a few folks on here were saying "cracked block, get new liners", but I decided to get the heads skimmed and do a gasket job on it - ARP head bolts and all that. I decided I'd chance it was just a head gasket failure (even though to my eye they looked...

Thanks for the reply Dove. I was hoping there was a magical solution... but clearly not! Having mulled my options, I took it to my local independent this week to get it on his computer, and that rarest of things happened - an immediate and accurate diagnosis! One of the HT leads had died...

Hi all. I've had a search, but I'm struggling to find answers to what I suspect is pretty common... The car is a P38 4.6 V8 2000. I've noticed this problem developing over the last 2-3 months, and it seems to be getting progressively worse. It started off feeling like a misfire (or similar)...

You'll get more replies if you start your own thread - a lot of the members have decided they're not interested in this one any more. As another tip, you need to give more information for people to bother.... car / engine type and age will help for a kick off. Snapped bolt....? Which bolt...

Hi Fett I got most of my stuff from Turner Engineering, including the followers. I paid £91.20 inc VAT for a set of 16. They didn't come in a LR box or anything, but I trusted that if a company with Turner's reputation says they are 'Original equipment', then that is what you're getting...

Just a thought.... I'm no expert, but having just changed the cam on mine I found accurately checking the preload was a nightmare - really fiddly and difficult to do conclusively - so I did the best I could and crossed my fingers...! Anyway, to my point. A relatively easy and cheap way to...

Good point - Yes - Kent :doh: Will try to edit previous.

Just by way of an update.... It took forever to finally get the time to source all the parts and put it all back together, but I finally finished it just before New Year. I sourced most of the parts from Turner Engineering in the end, as Paul at V8 Tuner (sadly) didn't share my urgency -...

Not long ago I read a thread with some great posts by 'Teflon'. It was titled "3.9 4.2 or 4.6". I don't know whether it will answer your questions, but I thought it was excellent food for thought. In essence, his main point was to make sure that whatever you've got under the bonnet, make sure...

Why didn't I think of that...?:doh::D

If I knew how much depth I had to go at.

I take your point, but I don't think you'd be saying that if your could see the thickness (thinness more like) of the bit of metal I'd have to drill into. The sensor mounts actually on the side of the rad... a couple of mm too far with the drill and I wouldn't be able to send the part back...

I've just come off the phone with LR Direct. It looks like I've got the correct part no, but Britpart are making the part to the same spec as the early cars (and an earlier part no) without realising that the part has been updated. I assume that means that if you've got an early car and get...

Ahh. I guess that clears that one up. I don't suppose you know if the part nos are the same or different?? Everything I've looked at gives just the one part number... I don't want to re-order and get another wrong-un! Cheers.

Sorry if I've misunderstood your post about when you were testing it, but it sounds to me like you were testing it with the cap off and the engine running...? If you were doing it like that it will boil over every time. You need to keep the cap on to create pressure, and that in turn increases...

Cheers Alex. That's one problem sorted....

I've found them to be as follows: ERR7370 - 1/4 UNC x 7/8" ERR7371 - 1/4 UNC x 1 1/4" I'm just looking now to see if I can get some nice shiny ones rather than bog-standard LR. If anyone knows a good website for that kind of thing, please shout! Cheers.