ha ha brilliant Sam. I presume this was Nigel's present to you yesterday?

Rear quarter panel can be removed with the glass in place.

Agree with Evil pushing will give you better gas shielding coverage. Cant tell for sure if this joint attempt was overlapped or butt welded? If doing this as a butt weld I would start on 2 (low) and place several tack welds along the joint every few inches. This ensures the heat doesn't pull...

He isn't using pub gas, he posted earlier that he was using argoshield

Guess how I am able to describe it so well :suspicious: I went through the same steep learning curve a few months ago! The spares pack is a good idea to have in stock too. I have been using 0.6mm wire for all my welding on the Disco

+1 on the flap discs. Clean the metal till it is shiny and has NO rust on it. Looking at the underside you can see the oxidation that was on those sheets. I have the same welder (Clarke 160TM) and the power settings are easy: Lowest: 1, 2, 3 (switch on low) 1, 2, 3 (Switch on high) Highest...

Looks a hell of a lot better than mine I think looking at the pics you are starting from a much better base than a lot of the rebuilds on here. Keep the pics coming

Looking at your practice welds I would say you need to get your steel cleaner first. That may account for some of the popping. What gas are you using? What settings are those welds on? Post a pic of the underside of those panels so we can see the penetration of the weld

Looks like it has been factory fitted with the standard Discovery rust pack. All the usual rust spots but it does look like the boot floor has been visited before judging by the color. Good to hear of another Disco being saved and a body off resto would be good to see. Good luck and don't...

It stopped being a LR experience site years ago and the off road track stopped being used. LR then started using Eastwell manor in Ashford and then pulled out of that. A new company The 4x4 solutions took over the Eastwell site and I know people that have used them with good reviews although...

Nice upgrade, would be interested if you could add a picture of the bit that you had to file down if you have one

Another vote for rivnuts here as they actually fit in the holes in the door frame when you remove the female plastic fixing things that the old door card fixings pushed into.

Cheers matey. My aim is certainly to get a solid motor that is going to last me a while longer at the end of it Rob

Wouldn't go as high as 8000K myself. The number is the color temperature of the light The higher the number the bluer the light appears. But that does not give a better light output. I would stick to the 4300K as this give the best amount of usable light

Cheers, still working on it. Though the weather isn't helping. Currently tidying up my winch on the bench in the garage while I can't do any welding

Seems like a professional first response to the issue from Britpart. At least they appear to be taking it seriously by arranging a courier rather than a standard "return to your retailer" type of reply Good advice there too, I think we should all check our balls regularly for cracks or any...

You could get the equivalent from YRM for £161 and that would include the front body mount too as part of the headlamp box which is usually knackered if the rest needs changing. I can highly recommend their stuff as I replaced both light boxes and inner wings on mine using YRM parts. If you...

Welding the brake?????? What? Made a start and stripped it down today anyhow. Looks simple enough and the gearbox has loads of that red sticky marine grease in it

:eek::eek::eek: Oh my god Gotta admit there is no way I would have attempted to fix that on site Mind you I wouldn't have been carrying a spare swivel ball either Well done fella

Sam Have you reconditioned that budget 12000lb winch yet? If not, is there any chance you could post a step by step as I want to refresh mine and could do with some hints Cheers Rob