Rattler. On the LR workshop pages there are part numbers, prices and sometimes the make/model/manufacturer all listed. Some entries keep it vague with just ‘British made’ noted but other items are a bit more detailed. I was able to be so precise with my order I’m sure it helped secure the order...

Oooerh. I have just brought a full set of 11 leafers from Paddocks partly on cost, £90 each rear, £120 each front, but they were also recommended. They also came with bushes, shackle pins and U bolts. They arrived last week and look fine but obviously the proof will be when they are fitted next...

If I ever get on Desert Island Discs I’m not taking the LR Workshop stuff with me. I need time now to get my life back on track So after much research Paddocks won out and new springs, bushes and shackle bolts are on the way. I needed to spread the cost so I didn’t get any U bolts as I could get...

Thanks for that. I have sent off an enquiry for 11 leafer road springs but parabolic springs are not out of the equation yet. Costs are the key thing with this project.

I took my hard top off and turned it upside down onto a blanket covered large pallet. I used some more old blankets to act as wedges to stop it rocking and secured it with rope tied to the pallet on the back corners and across the front. I had a half door sort of affair and that was zip tied...

Thanks for that Shippers. I thought I had missed out on a tech breakthrough. I would not recommend the LRworkshop listings as a bedtime read to lull you to sleep.it was about 1am before it dawned on me that my life was veering off course.

Thanks. That’s me up all night then. It’s interesting to see the range of prices for the same part but springs look like you get what you pay for. On the listing from LRworkshop it just says ‘front spring 11’ which is what I will be going for. Other sites are more specific and have right or left...

So the big project for this year was going to be replacing the springs, rear first then the front two in time for winter proper. When the ‘shuddering’ saga took over they nose dived down the list but when she was up on the ramp it was noted that one of the rear ones was blowing a bit with a...

And if you are scrambling about underneath to remove either propshaft do some prep by lubricating the nuts and bolts at least a couple of times……….. from the side. I tried WD40 and it’s numerous cousins but eventually resorted to ‘rustola’ on the last two rear bolts that refused to shift. Also...

I suppose it’s par for the course with a landie that’s just passed fifty. The squeak and hot metal hot was the brake shoes which led to properly unbudgeable bolts, corroded seals disintegrating and bearings giving up. In all, along with the front propshaft, she now has new rear wheel cylinders...

Thanks for that Woody. I did a bit of research and decided against doing anything to the brakes. I have always tended to avoid brakes and domestic electrics so why start now………. said the voices in my head.

I had about half of this in mind but the barriers have gone now and I’m back to parking on a slope. I wish I had got to the point where I could have removed the shoes, or the issue causing them to stay engaged, as it will get pretty hot on the trip to the garage and in my mind at least I could...

So what do you do when your road is part of a temporary road closure ……… you get the landie inside the cones, jack up the rear and start crawling around safe in the knowledge your legs won’t get run over. The drivers side rear brake is locked tight but the drum looks ok in that there is no...

I still think she’s a cutie but I have not been crawling around under her for a few days so that can change. I watched one of those new fangled You Tube videos on checking and replacing the diff, half shafts and rear propshaft. It was quite well done, by a Dutch fella and albeit on a much newer...

Would you flipping Adam and Eve it. I think that’s right. No shuddering or clonking today so the oil put in the diff last week might have settled in, although there is work to do there. Instead an audible squeak which was easy to trace to the rear, driver side wheel and given away further by the...

Going through the box file of paperwork that I inherited or have amassed in the eighteen plus years I have owned her it would seem the rear axle diff bearing housing bolts and the rear propshaft bolts have not been removed in at least twenty years …………….. which is possibly why two on the latter...

Morning, well yes that is the hope. As long as ‘we’ can get all the nuts undone the current plan is to take the prop shaft off, see if there is anything simply to remedy and then toss a coin. I suspect many a great plan has started thus

There is up and down play from the diff and the UJ is, I think, the same. It is minimal in both but I suppose combined and in the same spot it makes it relevant. I couldn’t get over how much noisier and clunkier she was driving her back, amongst the quieter periods, so it’s gone straight to the...

What a joy to be able to put her above head height. The bad news though is that it is probably the rear diff bearing pinion that is the fault as there is some play, albeit very little, at the point of attachment with the propshaft. Being able to grip that with both hands reveals a small amount...

4WD engage and disengage worked well today so I have her booked onto a ramp on Wednesday so ‘we’ can get to grips with all the moving bits and tight nuts and bolts whilst standing up and not crawling around. I’ll be glad to get this pain in the backside mystery solved.