My main concern with that is if it does fail your wheels falling off. By drilling/machining the swivels your only compromising their strength a minimal amount and a failure is unlikely. Basically I'd like to keep standard arms on to keep the diff pointing towards the gearbox so there is...

Forgot it was a td5 for injectors. Should still be able to run off a Gerry can providing its higher than the injection pump. Worth a shot anyway.

Get yourself a small gerry can with fuel in it and run a short piece of hose from the injection pump straight to the can in the engine bay. Then try running it. That way you will rule out the whole fuelling system. If it runs fine from a petrol can then you need to work your way along the fuel...

Hi did you ever do this? I have been considering the same recently however mine is because I will be running a 4" lift and don't want a more expensive prop. I have broken them before so if I can make it work with a standard prop I'd rather do that. Cheers

Hi could you get a price for postage for all the nuts and bolts. Going to Edinburgh EH221JW Wouldn't be in a hurry so slow cheap postage is fine Also are the prob bolts and nuts packs if 10? Do 20 nuts and bolts in total? Cheers mark

Hi did you get the wheel spacers off yet? Cheers

Nope no spacers. I have a 2" suspension lift and 2" body lift. That's it I only get rubbing at full lock and that's with 285/75/16 My friends discovery has 265/70/16 special tracks with no body lift or suspension lift and he only has the sand problem as me with full lock.

Have you tried your trailing arm bushes? You might be getting rear axle steer

If the rear pads are slipping out the calliper is probably worn too. If you replace the pads with rear pads from a 110 they have the pins to hold them in place so they can't fall through the calliper I had to do this on mine after finding one of my rear discs almost cut through because the rear...

No probs. it just sounds the exact sand symptoms as I had. Took me a while to find it as I just assumed it was fine because I could blow through it. After testing a load of other things including the turbo it ended up being the intercooler. Cheers.

Pull the rocker cover and check tappet adjustments again incase your push rods weren't seated. It's very unlikely but worth a check. Also might be worth cracking the injector pipes to check your getting fuel.

I have run these sizes in special tracks: 235/85/16 265/75/16 285/75/16 I find the 285s are by far the best and sit just over 2" taller than the 265 which helps a lot. Your problem is going to be the fact your on standard suspension etc. If I was you I would go for 235/85/16. Personally I...

I know you currently have the problem fixed but there may still be an issue worth looking into. I had a problem with a split hose before my turbo. It had drawn in some dirt which in turn chocked the inter cooler. It had the same symptoms as yours. Fine on idle etc. only when really accelerating...

If you were working with a brand new head which has had no work done the thickness of gasket is worked out by measuring piston protrusion from the block. Also the 3 hole gasket may not be the thickest. On the 200tfi you can get a no hole gasket which is the thickest. As for the valves when...

Its a bit more complicated than this but basically It depends if the valves are reground or not. If you only skim the head and refit valves then the valves will sit to low so pistons will hit. If you have the head skimmed and valves reground then you still use the 3 hole gasket.

A failed turbo is the most common cause of a runaway, you could have a failed head gasket between a cylinder and oil port but your gaskets not going to fail on all cylinders at once therefor you'd only be burning oil in 1 cylinder which is unlikely to be ably to runaway. As soon as you realised...

The runaway would cause the head gasket to fail and in doing so blow the coolant out the expansion tank as it over pressurises. During a runaway the engine will significantly over rev and also as its burning oil and reving so high it will run at a much higher temperature. On the basis that...

If I was you I would just buy a 2nd hand engine for it. If its used all the oil and coolant its going to have toasted the head so at very least it will need to come off and either be reconned or replaced. Then you need a turbo. Plus having it run away means its been spinning very fast with no...

Also when talking about where you have your gearstick there is no 4high 4 low etc. Its always 4 wheel drive. By mentioning 4 it can confuse people into thinking your talking about gearing. If the stick is back its high forward is low right is diff lock off left is diff lock on so you have 4...

Its most likely a diff,cv joint or shaft, take it out of diff lock and handbrake off. Stick your foot on the brake put it in first gear and lift the clutch. Have someone look underneath to see which prop shaft is spinning. Whichever prop spins that's the axle your problem is with. The other way...