Now you can replace the thermal switch on the old one. If successful put it under the seat as a spare.

Yes. Apart from anything else the teeth on the sprockets wear down. Wammers said he saw one around 100k miles that jumped a tooth from worn sprockets. That said, mine's closer to double that and they didn't look bad to me last time I had it apart. There's a limit to how far you can turn the...

The line to the tank is 6 mm, same as the 4 nearest the bulkhead that go to the bags. The 8 mm ones should go to and back from the dryer at the front.

@Saint.V8 or @MrGorsky have more experience with LPG. Is there any sort of diagnostic with the LPG tuning software? I'm guessing there's some sort of valve that opens to let the LPG get as far as the vapouriser? Is that opening? @backinblack might have some knowledge of LPG too.

I've had a thermal switch that checked out with a DVM but when I replaced it, it fixed the only running on diag.

Hmmm. Brown.

If pump only runs on diag and there are no faults then I would suspect the thermal switch has failed. Can be replaced. Wammers put the part-number in his How To in the Technical Section. You can very gently prise the little board past the rivets and leave enough to bang them on again after you...

I think it has almost got to the stage where they see one and realise it must have been looked after to get this far. Mine's 29 years old now but has less rust than many younger models out there.

Panhard rod at the rear. Bushes on it do go. Tends to be welded in place so will need a whizzy-gun to hammer it off.

That's worse than my '95!

I wrote a How To in the Technical Section.

Pretty sure mine is green and does both petrol and diesel. I certainly use it on both EDC and GEMS.

You didn't change it from late to early EDC or vice-versa?

martyuk comverted all his dash to LEDs but there was a lot of soldering required. I think he installed them in the original bulb caps. He went for blue but they worked really well with his black trim.

Sounds plausible. Or a driver's door rod was rubbing against something and the motors couldn't quite overcome it.

+1. Brian's 2 fob trick is the cheapest workaround.

The R380 was used in the P38A 4.0 litre petrol v8 so might bolt up relatively easily. The manual version was rare but I bet there are some scrapped because of HG issues.

That looks quite a large MEEP.

Could be duff alternator? There's a wiring test sheet somewhere on here and RR.net.

Microscratches in door need to be working to enter the EKA. Open door after sexond attempt to reset without going into lockout.