Yes, did that last year. Went to the motor spares shop this afternoon but came back empty handed. They only have fuel pipe and it only goes up to 12 mm. Went to a hydraulic hose place but the max temp for any of their hoses is 100C which is a bit too close to the engine operating temperature...

I might be tempted to try another flush in case some dirt is causing some issues.

Has it got a stop-lock missing from the left so it is turning too far? Or lock-stop, possibly.

I think I am overthinking this. I went out and had a look earlier and I reckon I can just cut the old fittings off and put a replacement rubber pipe over the existing metal ones with a couple of Jubilee clips. When I looked both the oil and transmission cooler pipes have a mist of oil. The oil...

From memory I need ESR2898 and ESR2900 but I might have the codes wrong. Only the rubber part is likely to fail though so a way to replace those at will seems like the sensible way forward. That way we're talking tens of pounds rather than hundreds, especially if the end fixings can be reused. I...

It is the fittings on the end of the rubber hose parts that have let go. I'm guessing 29 years of the rubber vibrating on the fittings has just worn it enough to weep. I am thinking there isn't any pressure there as such. If I can cut off the metal fitting and just get a fitting that I can push...

Anyone got any idea what size and threads the fittings are on the transmission oil cooler pipes are on the manual box? The bodgit I did last year with Quiksteel has failed and the underneath is mucky. MoT test soon and I need to fix it. Not only is finding the replacement parts tricky it is...

That was the Barrie the Brick solution. Or Harry Hammer.

Well, yes, that goes without saying but you can handle thousands of volts with low enough amps. You cannot handle many amps no matter whatbthe volts.

It is possible to catch the code from the fob and rebroadcast it. Very few can do it. However, on later models I think it may still need a transponder chip in the key to be picked up by the coil around the ignition. Although I might be mixing that up with an old Astra I had.

Beyond my ken other than Barrie the Brick.

Depends how they did it. It is hard to get all the fluid out the first time unless you flush it. Sometimes fresh fluid shows up wear as it flushes out the material that has been masking the problem. @Bemble is the expert on these boxes. I'd wait and see what he thinks.

No so much the volts but the amps available to launch a 2 ton carvthrough the air are insane. Definitely not a job to take on without the right tools. Moreover, everything is so damn complex these days. I wouldn't be surprised if it needs the impedence matching somewhere and probably dedicated...

Which gearbox has it got? Sometimes a fluid change will show up a developing problem so check the old fluid carefully for debris.

+1 on condenser. Bottom left corner.

Could be the ratio motor. You can take it off and turn yhe triangular shaft by hand a few times and check the plug for corrosion at the same time.

Might have been @300bhp/ton?

If it runs every single press the accumulator, that black ball thing, is getting weak. My guess is the diaphragm inside is distorting from the pressure of the nitrogen gas inside and if left long enough it is pushing fluid out the top of the reservoir. I'd try replacing it. An oil filter wrench...

I wonder if it is losing pressure somehow.

Normal relay in both?