i second a duff lead or plug Swap the plugs around

Ive rebuilt the engine and its all bsack together working ok. The only problem is when I start. It will either start as its supposed to do or do one of the following. Slowly increase revs to 2000 then drop down to normal after a short while. Rev upto 1200 revs then slowly die. Either...

Difference in wheel diameters from front to back. New tyres should do the trick

Looks like my gasket i took off. Why make them out of such poor quality materials, or is it a case of all the galleries too close to the bores. Why not make them out of good old copper. As ive taken my heads off 4 times i always put a little copper grease on the manifold bolts to stop them...

Done 100k in my thor on LPG. Always had NGK , i just replace them every year. The leads are more important. I've got magnacore leads which have seen me through for 8 years. NGK is best in my opinion. I've also 2 other cars on LPG and again on standard plugs

Compression test first as this will take any problem with valves. Maybe a duff plug. Should be around 150-180 psi

Happy with the replacement transfer box in the car and decided to drive to work this morning 32 miles. Checked the tyres at my local shell and set off. BEEP BEEP BEEP the gas switched to petrol. Stopped started and did the same, so pulled up to a BP(the Tesco of take the **** with...

It's not a matter of wimping out. I've just spent over a week rebuilding the engine and I've got jobs stacking up that need to be done as well. Repairing my lads boat at the moment he's racing this season, plus a shed load of stuff I need to do around the house.

Found a local garage to do it for £120 plus vodka and tonic. So it's cheap enough to get it done. Thanks for all the advise No good breaking your back

Thanks chaps. I have one more mate in a garage to ask before I crush my nose and look something like Miliband

Purchased a great transferbox yesterday. Nice and tight clean and already been apart with new parts so it has to be better than the leaking clonking siezed VC i have on the car at the moment. I dont think its a big job if you have a 2/4 post lift and a transmission support. Garages around...

Probably yes a new one would be better but my transfer box is leaking anyway and a good clinking when taking up power so its a good idea to change both anyway

Thanks warmers. I'm presuming it will need to be on ramps in the air as I've only got a pair of ramps and a drive ��

Having trouble just getting the viscous coupling second hand as they all come with the transfer box. Is the transfer box the same on both gems and thor petrol engines I;m aware the oil burner is not Thanks

Thanks thats what i wanted to hear Maybe this thread will prompt others to do the test Better buy one quick before the rush for a coupling takes place £300 new . #thought i might do the chain as well until i saw it was £300 as well

Me too but the viscous coupling test says it's also a seized coupling

After a couple of weeks with the car on ramps replacing cams and top end and bottom end of the engine i know find out Ive a seized coupling. Im getting a rumbling at around 40mph and theres somrthing not as it should going around corners Tried handbrake on and gearbox in N. Jacked a wheel...

Great work in bringing the baby back to life. I would make sure engine is fine before spending lots of time on everything else. If your of the fix it anyway if its knacked then fair dues. Reminds me of all the work ive done over 11 years with my p38

Put a multimeter on fuse 12 . They dont always look like they are blown when they are

Hard to say but i shall have to jack her up and feel the bearings i think