Found my pic...

Sounds very much like your crankshaft pulley is about to come apart and bounce around inside your engine bay.... o_O I'll see if I can find the pic of mine when I removed it.

It's an EU2 engine with EGR removed. The MAF is pretty much surplus to requirements. I'm still going with overboost. Either that or it's a fuel starvation issue. Start simple and change the fuel filter.

How much did you pay for the hub? Oh and the icarsoft v1 is pretty much useless for the td5. The land rover version is much better but still not a patch on the nanocom or Hawkeye.

Aside from your exhilarating sleeping mistakes, it sounds like it's overboosting. Wind the turbo actuator rod back a couple of threads (so more are showing). There should be 12-13 threads normally. You need to loosen the little lock nut then turn the knurled cylinder towards the turbo, then...

Cataclean is a brand name. It cleans the whole fuel system. It had dramatic results on my 2000 D2 emissions.

Stick a bottle of cataclean (diesel version) in the tank and give it a good thrashing. I did and it went from over 8 down to 0.14 !

Check your installation. You must have done something wrong even though it's difficult to get wrong... I did both of my front regulators on my D2 recently, using Britpart. (they are identical to D1) and they work fine with no play.

Ok I meant the pickup :rolleyes::p

Hi mate, I've got to pick you up on a common myth. It doesn't matter how much fuel is in your tank, any muck or silt in the bottom will get to the pump anyway as that's where the pickup is located - at the lowest point. Likewise with water. Diesel floats on water therefore it will always get to...

Well yeah, it's just to rule out the in tank pump.

Well it threw up known faults, (from a nanocom) and identified which ABS sensor is knackered (i know which one and why) However, I didn't buy it and wouldn't buy one. Even if it does work ok, it doesn't do enough for the td5 to justify £130.

It is relevant, it's a starting point. It can sound like it's priming but not be drawing fuel properly, for example if the mesh at the bottom of the filter is blocked or the in tank pump is failing but not quite dead. That was the test a landy specialist I know well told me to do. In the end I...

My mate got one for his L322. It works ok on my td5 disco but doesn't do even half of what a nanocom does. There again, it's less than a third of the price of a nanocom...

Undo the pipe from the pump to the fuel filter, (into a container) then ign. pos 2. If you get a strong jet of fuel, the pump is ok. If it's a dribble, it's fecked...

I'm going with dead fuel pump... Or not.... :rolleyes:

Sounds very similar to the symptoms I had when my fuel pump failed. Fine up to around 30mph then juddery with very little power. Turn the ignition to position 2, can you hear the pump priming? (Steady whining from the fuel tank area)

Put the wheel back on, handbrake, chock it, and jump on your extended breaker bar. It took all of my nearly 15 stone jumping on mine to crack the nut. Alternatively, put it in low range and 1st or reverse (depending on which side...) with the bar handle on the ground and drive it a foot or so...

Well, I fitted the new intercooler today, £152 for a Nissens (decent make apparently) it seems better made than the original. Anyway, big improvement, much better power and I don't have to book an appointment to pull out of a junction... will be interesting to hook it up to my mate's icarsoft...

If it's silent, check the little spade connector on the bottom of the starter motor. They often come loose or get dirty.