A few people have now asked me to write up a little bit about the mods I've done/working on for the L series. Might as well make it into a small guide as well eh? INJECTORS First up, the Freelander injectors have been swapped out for Rover SDi injectors - these have slightly larger nozzles...

That was me - but that was for a sloppy gearchange, not this issue I'm afraid

tip of the nozzle is only around 6mm in diameter IIRC - tiny little things :) My camera struggled to even focus on it

Tried a new wiring mod, for more low-end poke on the L series. Worked REALLY well, but brings on the engine warning light once you rev it hard :lol:

Stock pipe is 6mm ID, thick wall pipe :) And the MGF uses standard brake pipe size IIRC, so no worries on that front Busy tonight, so will hopefully get a spare 5 mins to measure the bore of the stock master+slave tomorrow.

Well I'm fed-up of this clutch - every attempt I've made to bleed something SO simple in operation, has just defied me. Once I've fully replaced it, I'm going to burn the original bloody parts The MGF master can't be used annoyingly, as it's a vertical setup - but if the resevoir can be...

found this picture too, which may be of interest: A simple piece of angle-iron. All I need now is a slave cylinder to mock it up with :lol:

Could just go the old-school method, and bolt on a piece of leather strap?

300TDi injector nozzles, on a Rover 220SD (mechanical pump, lowest pressure pump of all the L series engines). Anything above 1/4 throttle resulted in a smokescreen that James Bond would be envious of - plus it went SLOWER, as the fuel was not atomising in the slightest, just kinda pouring out...

Mine appears to have suffered the same fate - the strap is still attached to the door, but the piece that was attached (welded? Bolted?) to the inside of the B pillar, is just kinda floating around in there.... It's more a device to stop damage to the hinge, so not specifically an MOT failure.

Here's a closeup of a nozzle which was overfuelling so much, it was undriveable (it was a fun experiment). It took nothing more than a wipe with a tissue to clean it back to near-shiny steel On most other injectors I've removed, there's just a blackening of the steel - no carbon buildup...

mgf parts could certainly make life easier.... Slave fits on a steel bracket - the upper bolt holes go to the engine mount, but would be simple enough to weld on a basic bracket that used the lower hole http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID000226 Slave cylinder would need the pushrod...

oh don't worry - I find getting that ruddy thing a PITA too. But on the INSIDE of the car, there's two nuts. Undo those, and the adaptor plate with the square hole, comes off :) Look at step 5 on the dark ice instructions - shows the plate

why would you need to drill new holes? Just unbolt the original mounting adaptor plate from the bulkhead :)

one possible solution: remove the clevis-pin end from the Honda master cylinder, and replace with a piece of 6mm thick steel with a hole to suit the pin on the clutch pedal.

Dark Ice Designs do their own version of the Sheddist kit Sheddist clutch kit Pretty basic steel plate to bolt on a generic slave cylinder (with the correct bore), the master cylinder mounting plate is removed to allow fitting of a fairly standard 2-bolt master cylinder. Then use standard...

I've got a couple of dirt-cheap mods you can do, for a nice bump in power if you're wanting it? Throw me a PM if you're not scared of cutting some wires to the pump :lol: Once I've tested the newest mod, I'll be writing a full thread on the subject

Chop down the forests, to plant acres of rapeseed....

my post? Or yours with the "token expired" thingie? Yours is just something with your browser. Skipping back+forth between pages. Mine? The concept is still sound... but this particular version doesn't work. Just going ahead with holding the clutch pedal down overnight. It's a temporary...

what engine? If it's an L series, then 10w40 (diesel grade) would be fine. Just change the oil a bit more regularly. Any other engine would prefer oil that's at least half decent quality. Don't skimp on cheap oil, unless you're just running the car into the ground