I concur use 20/50 he will need plenty of it......

Got a good chance of being NPT as I believe the Roverdrive/Roamerdrive where originally made in America or Canada. All the info for NPT or BSP (imperial) is just a Google away. Simply multiply the imperial size by 25.4 to get the size in metric.

Been there done that, then it gets annoying taking it out to dry. Looks great though and anything to help with the noise, I've just never got a series waterproof for long.

Just to add to your concerns the petrols before a certain time had cast iron cranks with a "P" cast into them the diesels had a forged crank. Simple sump drop to check. I have heard of converted petrols breaking cranks under load. I did however run a diesel top end on an early petrol bottom for...

The 5 bearing engine has a "Herringbone" pattern of ribs cast into the lower crankcase sides. They where originally painted in a teracotter (Spelling?) colour.

I do not recall differences around those years but I have been away from series for a few years now. I suggest buying the kit, making copious cups of tea and spend a day doing the job. If it runs better afterwards it will be very satisfying. Have you checked the "Pop off" pressures on the...

If you want originality and can afford them go for the galvanised ones. Me I would go for Wolf Military or Rocky Mountain tops.

Can't help with an engine as I have now "left the fold" after best part of 40 years running series I've parted with the spares. When you find an engine be sure to check out the hotspots in the cylinder head. When they make a bid for freedom the damage can scrap the engine.

I concur re fitting relays if you don't you will soon be replacing light switch and indicator/dip stalk. Worth running a good earth from the multi position area on bonnet slam strip to somewhere better. One last thing check the bulb voltages when you get the kit, I chased a poor earth for hours...

Remember with all these acceleration tests nothing wears out transmission faster than harsh acceleration.

Anything much more than 45mph on a 2 1/4 diesel is a bonus. 55 is possible with good ear defenders and no mechanical sympathy.

I use a D5 Eberspacher in my workshop. Think it came out of a truck, gives plenty of heat but doubt it would blow hard enough to demist. The series two club had a batch of heated screens made a year or two ago.

I had issues with a tank on a series three 8 or 9 years ago, took a bit of hacking around to fit. The notch may just be a "Tooling Aid" to locate the part in a jig during manufacture, remember these are now low volume and may be made differently than using full on progression press tools.

Are you refering to the link arm from steering box to relay ? Sometimes require a wedge tapped in to open up where they fit on the splines. They can be an absolute bugger to shift.....

Camping mats are worth a look. If your pockets are deep (VERY DEEP) there is an outfit in Scotland whose name is eluding me at the moment they make a glass fibre lining along with door trims etc. Edit, just remembered it is LaSalle

Like I said in my first post, a hotspot making a bid for freedom. I have worked on a few like that.

I would be looking at a minimum of £2500

Agree re tyres Col. For many years I ran Avon Rangemaster (also known as "Strange Bastards") 205 x 16 Couldn't wear them out and never got stuck. An 88 does look good on 750s but they limit the lock a bit.

For 35 or more years I commuted between 18 and 25 miles each way by motorcycle and in a series when the weather was dodgy. You have to want to drive a series and put up with all the noise/leaks/problems, but boy are they fun ! Reality of 40 to 45 mph cruise is nearer the mark in a diesel...

It has been done before, I will try and find/remember which magazine did a feature on it.