mmmm shiny! You must be from the dark side though ... aren't those coil springs hiding down there?

Teflon - your engine bay must look like you drove into the back of a dustcart. Marigolds, tupperware, milk carton, condoms, bin liner & stockings?! I'll defo vouch for the marigolds though.

There's 2 ways you could look at this. Take up the generous offer above of a roll of cable for £45-£75, then go and find a whole load of connectors, insulation tape, wiring diagram etc and spend at least a couple of days doing it .... potential cost must surely be the best part of £100 plus...

See post #5 on this thread from a couple of days ago. good luck. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/battery-prob-84163.html

it's a lot more bearable if you visit an agricultural merchant or tractor dealer instead of a motor factors. ask for a 643 or 644 type battery which is about the biggest tractor battery you can fit in a series tray. the difference between 643 and 644 is which way round you want the + and the...

Congratulations and welcome to the club old chap. Hope you've got plenty of spare discs for your angle grinder and an industrial supply of WD40.

well done feller! yours is going to be up and running waaaaaay before mine.

Yeah - just! Between the rad and the motor - a Pacet slim 'leccy one. There was no way the viscous fan was going to fit. I'm very slightly in love with your air filter mounting bracket. Brunel would have been proud.

NOS - I wish! No, it's my contribution to global warming. That ickle pipe probably goes to the rad expansion tank. There's 2 types, pressurised (that has a relief cap) and unpressurised (where the relief cap is on the radiator). Don't do what I did and fit the wrong type! You probably need...

Proper job, Fenby. You've got around to that a lot quicker than my 'long term' engine transplant ... I'm sure last time I saw that Landy it had a Ford engine in it!! That recess for the intercooler almost looks like it's been made for the job. When I look at the 200 conversion it always amazes...

You might find that a lack of VIN on the vehicle at the MOT test will have raised a flag with VOSA and they could call your truck in for a Vehicle Identity Check (if you're really unlucky).

Like this. P'raps not quite so easy if you've got an engine in the way. And - you gotter be well careful when you undo it and let the ratchet go!

You might be able to compress the suspension enough if you put a couple of H/D ratchet straps between the chassis rails and the axle on each side. I tried this with my rear axle when I was doing something similar. You really have to wazz the straps up well tight though and it doesn't do them...

The ones in the chassis rails that support the rear of the front springs are longer, and NOT the same as the spring bushes. The ones in the spring hangers at the back that support the rear of the rear springs ARE the same as the leaf spring bushes (p/n 548205) All the spring bushes front and...

Sounds that way, fella. You could always double-check the tank is well earthed - although they're bolted directly to the chassis they can rust heavily along the mounting. Consolation is that they're pretty cheap, dead easy to change and you should have really good access to the sender (unless...

you'll likely have problems with the S3 clutch slave cylinder fouling the S2 gearbox crossmember (they have different shape bracings on the crossmember). can be battered/ground out of the way. you'll possibly have problems with your front brake hose lengths - S2 chassis has the mounting tabs...

Sorry mate, don't know. You might be lucky - the 3.54 24-spline diffs fit (I believe) in the same casing, but it's not something I've tried. However - if you're looking for stronger halfshafts - have you considered fitting a whole Salisbury axle?

two people can just about get an 88" done in a looong weekend, leaving minor fettling/wiring/bleeding brakes/clutch etc for the evenings of the following week. do it in as big lumps as possible, eg: roof, side panels, rear tub in one bulkhead with all wiring, steering, windscreen, pedals...

stripping the springs is not the only way to get a bit of lubricant between the leaves - you can do it in situ. aerosols of motorbike chain oil are pretty good too. but - stripping the leaves IS the only way to get the accumulated rust and crud out. you'll just have to take a view of how...

in the immortal words of Mr. Haynes ... "assembly is the reverse of disassembly" do the fronts first. at least if you then get really hacked off with doing it, and only do two of the four springs, you've done the ones that will make the most difference to your ride. I'm in the middle of a...