Thanks Don, was what I was hoping to not hear...how much is a tiny bit - I didn't measure it but I'd say there was a good 10 thou PS I got the MS not fairly tight...with a chisel and by locking up with reverse and a forward gear selected...new nut on order and I will search for the bloody MS...

Well, I've got part way there now. Most of that parts that have come seem to have been of good quality, won't really know until the gearbox is fitted to the motor. Everything went fairly straightforward except I wasn't clear on the layshaft refitting instructions: Firstly I didn't know what...

Are you sure that bearing isn't from the 1st/2nd changeover? Your gearbox looked even more goosed than mine, it's amazing how fecked up a landrover can get and still move!

Thanks, I've got a few bearings, seals and gaskets from them. The actual cogs and synchro's are a bit of a mixture of Bearmach and Genuine where cheap enough. The whole lot has come out rather more than I paid for the motor so I hope I don't balls it up. I will no doubt have to get some more...

I was considering it but the shafts seem ok and I guess I'd have to replace the lot for suffix d. I may have a look at pricing it up as this box will be going in the daily drive so worth a bit of investment. This is my first go at a cog box so it's a bit overfacing!

I don't know how they get away with saying it (and charging for it) when it's not. Where do you get your gear parts from? Are the bearmach cos and synchros any good?

Hello, I've finally stripped down my 109's gearbox and had a look at what needs doing. The synchros have been given a very hard time of it by someone. 3/4 is knackered and 1/2 has some missing teeth. I've got a _long_ list of things to order but I have to say I don't know which parts to...

Don't ever wash a car unless it's just passed an mot as a reward. It gives them ideas... What they said plus look for water in the ht leads and plugs, more wd40

I actually got a chance to spend an afternoon in the workshop this week and started stripping down the main box. It actually doesn't look too bad inside except for the 3rd/4th synchro unit which has lost its clips and all the teeth are well worn. Not sure about the gear in the picture it looks...

Is yours the T type system with one leg going to breather, one to carb and one to inlet. If so just get a small paper filter for the inlet end, it will suck dirt into the engine otherwise. Don't be tempted to block the spare pipe as that will over (de)pressurise the block when you're on the...

I remember my first go at undoing the wheels, ended up jacking it up and dropping it on the breaker bar resting on the floor to crack em whilst ****ting the back with an FBH. Impact air gun didn't do anything

That's burning rich not oil. It may be something simple, like the float valve being stuck or the float height setting being wrong or a float being punctured. If the idle adjustment does nowt it means its either all coming from the main jet or its just ****ing petrol in constantly. A strip down...

Are you sure it doesn't need a bit of choke. A normal landy (with a direct fan) won't warm up until it's been driven a bit

Are you sure its not the feed to the switch at the steering column or the fuse. I had a lot of this until I cleaned out and retensioned my fuse holders

That would make sense. One was loose on the SWB too. I will have to weld it in at some point...

Hello, I've started a refurb of the bulkhead for my long abandoned LWB project. I notice that one of the bulk head "feet" (i.e. the bit that has the bolt hole for mounting to the chassis) is loose. The other has just a couple of dabs of weld holding it on. Is that normal - are these bits...

I got a new galv chassis from Richards and refitted the old bulkhead. It took a LOT of persuading to line up the mounting holes...

The other thing I meant to mention is that a slight tweak of the idle speed can stop the worst steering wheel rattle...

When you flushed it did you take the thermostat out? There's plenty of places for the rusty muck to sit and it's quite often mixed in with oil and grease so resists attempts to flush with cold water.

There's some sort of arrangement with two separate pistons and a spring so that the front brakes come on first...or so I was told.