I bought one of these, it's bit of a big beast but i only needed for a couple of jobs in the garage. £60 and 450nm https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cew1000-electric-impact-wrench

This is more of an information/story post that might help in the future. So im currently rebuilding defender on a galvanized chassis and bulkhead. Today was the day for starting the engine after timing belt, clutch and rear crank seal change. Like most people I've read stories about engines...

I know the guy, as far as I know he hasn't progressed any further as was running out of space and needed to build a good sized shed to store all the parts. I'll point him to this thread.

I've contemplated something like this along the sill, not sure how long it would last but its cheap and doesn't require any drilling. https://www.screwfix.com/p/stormguard-extra-thick-weatherstrip-black-3-5m-2-pack/40425?

Depending if you have space, something like this...

I've got a gap about 12mm at the top of both doors. Pic attached. How big is your gap? My tub was tilting down, I had to put spacers under the pads at the seatbox end to get it aligned. I used a piece of string from the rear of the tub to the bulkhead at the arch to make sure it was level.

It turns out the gap was a little too big, when I tried door seal there where a couple of places where I could see daylight. The gap was around 15mm, so with a bit of adjustment I managed to get this down to about 10mm which works well with the door seals. From the information I've read the gap...

It was the spacers on the bulkhead to chassis in the engine bay.

So there was a bit of vertical play in the door hinges and removing some spacers to allow the bulkhead tilt forward a little bit seems to have aligned the arch. That's one side sorted... Thanks for everyone's help so far

Yep I think you're right, at the moment the top and bottom of the bulkhead is equal distance. I'll align everything using the door instead of taking measurements and see how it looks.

That's a good point, I will look at the doors in more detail. I am going to have another go, I'm happy with the gaps but I don't like that the arch/curve doesn't line up.

Yep have watched all his videos, followed them as closely as I could. Just thinking that working with a new chassis and galvanized bulkhead I might be fighting a battle I cannot win.

So I've spent a good few hours trying to get tub, bulkhead etc... lined up so door gaps are good. I've come to a point where I can't seem to get it any better. I've got new genuine door hinges and got same distance between top and bottom of bulkhead to tub, also used string to get tub curve...

Cheers, thanks for the confirmation.

All the bolts I removed only had one washer, if there was no metal plates I would expect 2 washers.

So I'm attaching the roof to my 90 and I can't be certain if I'm missing some bits. The roof bolts towards the front around the seat belt upper mount have a metal plate in the roof , however I don't seem to have any of these metal plates for the rear section. Is this normal or am I missing...

I’m still rebuilding my K reg defender. My tip is don’t purchase all the expensive items up front as there will be times you’ll just need to order a cheap item (gasket, bolt etc…) and its crazy spending £5 on postage when the item is only 20p. Cheaper in the long-run to add an expensive item...

I think that is how the production version will look. Can't decide if I like it or not.

Just seen this new photo of the defender without a disguise. I've grabbed from Instagram with the blurb about it.

I recently bought some tub cappings from these guys, best price i could find at the time. https://www.sp-4x4.com/category_s/116.htm