I keep finding stuff like this "This is a remanufactured unit not an original Land Rover unit restored " WTF ? Anyway, at £700 it's more than I'd pay or the guy who actually owns the vehicle wants to pay. By the time you've bought all the other bits probably £2,500 + ??? Personally I'd break...

I might just have to do that if things get desperate. A 270 mile round trip, probably ten gallons of diesel, so that's £65 gone before I've bought anything. Only worth doing if I'm going to save myself a truck load of cash there. My last trip to Newbury was travelling in the back of a series...

I've got a series three to sort out. The dash is in lots of pieces, and they are not good pieces. Most bits have seen better days, the instrument panel is cracked, other bits damaged or missing altogether. What are my best options ? Try to find good used bits. Try to repair what is there by...

I've used my 88 diesel (1970) as my daily driver for the last thirteen years. It wears out and occasionally breaks down, but I just nail it back together. Does the charm of driving a series wear thin ? Well not with me it doesn't. Still puts a smile on my face as I trundle away from my house...

I've got one to refit this weekend, a fiendishly cunning device that will stubbornly refuse to release the bonnet until you get it spot on. Be persistent, it will stop fighting you eventually

Somebody does do a full soft top conversion for the 109 Station Wagon, I can remember seeing one, but only online, not in the metal as it were. Not cheap, about £2,500 for the kit IIRC, plus there's some engineering work to do I think. Not sure if the rear door posts have to be cut off at...

I usually manage to break a half shaft every time I manage a good hard weekend of off roading. Doesn't actually break that weekend, usually lets go about a month later on the way to work. You must be lucky enough to have some good quality half shafts in your axles

Actually just looked at the pictures again, and the front axle looks excessively narrow too. Series One axles ?? Unfortunately not worth the amazing prices of some S1 stuff

Not if you live in the same place you did about twenty years ago

Yeah, that's probably the case. Some of my fuel lines probably date back to 1970 when my vehicle was built.

Looks like I must be using the wrong technique then, either the damn thing just won't go on, or the pipe splits on me. And I rate myself as having pretty strong fingers too.

Sounds like a good system, I'll look into it myself. Clear pipes would solve a lot of little diesel mysteries

And if you want to buy genuine Land Rover replacement pipes they cost an absolute arm and a leg, for what is just a length of pipe with two unions

Never seemed to work for me, 100°C never seemed to produce the necessary softening of the pipe. Maybe I should have tried boiling oil ? A little medieval but possibly a good bit hotter

Front axle doesn't look too abnormal to me. Rear axle definitely appears to be too narrow. Could it be from a late Series One ? I've never really been into S1 (I'm too tight fisted) but I think I recall some of them had floating half shafts, possibly the 109"

I'd be inclined to buy the expensive crimping tool (I've seen some supposedly professional quality items for about £40) and restore everything back to standard spec. My suffix G 88 diesel has basically standard wiring with just two fuses, and I've never had a problem. But what is worrying is...

What make of master cylinder have you bought ? The ones made in China have a bad reputation for failing straight out of the box. Having said that, I ran one of them cast iron Britpart m/cylinders on my clutch for 10 years maybe longer

What are owners using to replace damaged fuel pipes on their diesels ? I've found the original nylon type pipe that Land Rover used is almost impossible to work with. Apparently you're supposed to heat up the end of the pipe before pushing it onto the union. But when I try it (hot air gun) I...

I've got a new "Smiths" heater motor here that I think I bought from Paddocks at some point. Interestingly it seems to be made in China ! You're probably better off reviving your old motor if you can, it's probably better quality

I fitted one in 2012 I think. Still going strong, but only because I keep squirting old engine oil into the mud traps where the tank mounts to the chassis, especially at the rear