I will order a set of OE glow plugs as i put the cheap ones in my last DSE and they were Cr*p. Something has cleared itself or reset as its still the same this morning, to best describe it, its like towing a car behind you for a month and getting used to the reduced performance then the tow...

Yeah, i was concerned about over fueling and possible runaway but checked oil level to be correct and no smell of diesel. Just a though on that subject though, how do you stall a runaway on a auto?

Over use would just wear it out, not seize it. I honestly think you've had a long Running issue by the number of starter motors you've been through, Gees your unlucky if you have to replace one

If the cables getting that hot it's pulling some serious current, makes me think it the starter seized. does it only get hot when you turn key to crank position? Seen it before on car with faulty ignition switch meaning starter didn't disengage, starter seized solid when it cooled down

To be honest it starts fine with one, but takes a few seconds, its full of old folks where i live so i give it 2 so it fires first crack so i don't get any moans at 6am.

Ok reading your post again, it is possible that you have had the starter staying engaged while the engine is running, causing the motor to burn out or seize up. If your trying to crank a seized motor with a charged battery all you will get is a clunk and heat in the cables? Maybe this has been...

Yes heat is a sign of high resistance so poor earth or rotten cable.

Well the Green Oval Goblin is well documented but i think i can report the first case of the Green Oval Fairy ?!!? Done nothing other than replace the valve unit and driver pack to the RR over the weekend, not even driven it. Got in it at 6am as i do every week day, 2 goes on the glow plugs...

Spent 20 minutes sussing out how i'm going to fit the RR Sport side steps i got off fleabay onto the P38.

Sorry about your loss, do you think you will buy another? Just read your what did you do today post, so yes eh!

Ive seen a couple on e-bay in Alveston for around £50, that is your colour right? my last P38 was Alveston.

Good luck, hope you get a decent amount back but as Data said reject the first offfer

Without wanting to offend i would guess £1800-2000, based purely on my searches for a DSE over the last few months. The bonus with a total burn out is they cannot truly establish the condition of the interior or paintwork, they will just go off book price based on mileage.

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That's a good tip, is there some sort of isolating strip between the 2 layers that breaks down over time? when i replace my front wings found fibre washers under each bolting contact point.

So if my head gasket, diffs, ball joints or becm fails within 6 months of ownership i can get it repaired FOC by the dealer, brilliant! you do learn something every day

No its not me who's shafted myself, that was my reaction to being told any fault arising in the first 6 months is considered to be present at the point of sale, which i find ludicrous. I've already informed the OP he's messed up fixing something himself without returning it to dealer.

Wow, that's amazing, it covers second hand cars? I'm surprised dealers are brave enough to sell 10-15 year old car, that could in 6 months have absolutely anything fail from a bulb to the engine and have to repair or refund.

I'm not an expert but my understanding is' The faults must be present at the point of sale, faults arising after the sale are not covered by sale of goods they are covered by warranty, which you did not take, so IMO that rules out your claim on the alternator. The array of warning lights were...