Realy, is it possible to get the microswitches separate? That would be superb, I couldn´t find them online.Good idea regarding the MGF motors. I´ll send Marty a DM. Cheers!

Cheers guys, the door locks have been working ok over the past couple of days. I still have my door card off and am monitoring it. I´ve ordered a used door lock to replace it...but who knows what condition it is in.

Thanks, did you have to cut the single wire connector and solder it?

Hope you're having a great weekend! Its snowing over here. I am looking for a replacement LHD RH front door latch assembly for my early 1996 P38 and according to this parts manual below it should be ALR6958. However on paddocks it suggests FQJ103240 is correct and it is in fact very difficult...

ok, cheers mate! I´ve found a new driverpack off fleabay for around 100pounds so will wait till that arrives and then remove valve block and replace the unit. It will probably be a couple of weeks till it gets to the EU and clears customs.

Thanks for your indepth explanation pwood999. I am getting a better understanding of how the system works and quite enjoying the problem solving. I´m not really confident I will be able to repair the driver pack so I may be better off buying a new one. Are they expensive or even possible to buy...

How do I get to the other connectors on the driver pack? Does the valve block need to come out?

Right, I've ckecked this. CDL test 1 and 2 pass. Door adjar test 1 and 2 pass. Didn't do key switch test as on other door. CDL motor test... I am getting an initial 28-30ohms and drops down to a steady 2.7ohms. Which is less than the resistance in the chart.

I've had a look at the connectors, there is no dirt or corrosion. No loose wires. Here are some pics just to be sure I am looking at the right thing.

but this was rapid and loud clicking pinpointed to the door lock area...

Right ok... I've just been back to the car.... unlocked it, started it up beautifully, no EAS fault, raised to height immediately. Just the one LED as expected. switched it off, started it again, no problem swithced it off, locked, unlocked and started again.... perfect, not problems with EAS...

Ok, so I have some developments after going to check what you guys have suggested, but I now have these new observations... car has been stood since Wednesday in the garage (saturday afternoon now at time of writing). No loss in height at all. Opened it, started up beautifully first time and...

I don't remember exactly, but I think the temperature around the time was -10C for around a week. I remember the door seals were very stiff and frozen when I was opening the drivers door.

Ok, guys there is a lot for me to try over the weekend! I have a multimeter so will test the sensors and try the other things that have been advised. Just a quick question, once I take off the sensor, will it need recallibrating somehow? I don´t want to be left with an undriveable car before I...

Anyone have a nanocom evo they no-longer require and unlocked to a 4.0 p38? Cheers

it certainly is a keeper...I´ve already spent a fortune on it... definitely lots more than I would get for it. I have been searching for a green one with very low mileage and LHD for about 3 years before I bought it last year. I just picked up my Mondial alloys from the powdercoater this...

Is there a way to check whether the sensor is at fault? Would the nancocom be able to diagnose this?

Can they be cleaned?

thank you, I will have a proper look over the weekend. Do you think it is worthwhile buying a nanocom for the P38? I would like to keep it for a while, although the cost is a fair bit

Not sure if they are original, but I wouldn´t have thought so as the car looks to have been serviced quite well. Although I didn´t get any service hsitory with the car.