Thanks, that would be great.....

Series 3, How far out should my Button pop, Ladies and Gentlemen. Without further investigation I can only depress it about 1/8 inch (3mm). It appears quite stiff at that but does release from the ratchet. Obviously bench testing at the moment.....

Great news James, thanks for that, much appreciated.....

Hi all, I have 2001 TD5 110 that could do with new pads on the back. I was trying to sort out what I need so got a ref number off the caliper, Lockheed LB10PY015AC. Now when I look that up it is a TDi caliper! I could also do with a pair of Drive Flanges, I can see 'play' in the present ones. So...

Have you standard engine, gearbox/transbox fitted? I have a 1979 3 for restoration and the front propshaft is 615 mm no matter how I jiggle the gearbox (no engine in at present). Springs, old set are 440 centre of hanger bolt to centre of 'leaf bolt'. Have a set of GB Parabolics and both fronts...

They are the replaceable type Rob, I have two different sized bearings in the hub so they're the earlier ones. I was going to chance leaving them on but prompted by your chisel method I looked on the 'net' and it seems relatively easy to replace them so I'll give it a go. I won't be ordering...

Thanks Tot, I have the axle stripped down as far as the diff at the moment, I have to replace the pinion oil seal 'cause the oil poured out there. The half shaft is turning smoothly in the diff, no 'hard' spots or strange noises. I'll obviously be changing oil when rebuilt and I'd imagine that...

Hi Rob, yes it is the rear near/passenger side, the one with the longer half shaft. There was a nice bit of 'radial' play, as in forwards and backways but then it it was very tight to pull off the the end of the shaft. That's a good guess at what might have happened, if the outer nut came undone...

Hello People, doing a bit of a tidy up on a back axle and found that the Drive Flange had a fair amount of play in it. When I went to take it off it put up a bit of a fight but eventually took Half Shaft off and then knocked off Flange with a hammer. As you can see there is a lot of 'scoring' on...

I think you'll only need 4 of the large self tappers, 2 top and 2 bottom. There are already predrilled holes present in my wing. Like yours, my old bowls are held on with 3 nuts and bolts, the wiring is 'incorporated' by means of clips on these nuts. That countersunk I don't think you will need...

I changed headlights in a Defender recently and the 'adjuster' screws were "top and left" looking at them from the front. I have the plastic Wipac bowls for a Series 3 here on the table and as far as I can see the only way I could fit them is "top and left" as well. There are 3 clips needed to...

Paddocks have Wipac ones, come with a hole + grommet..... https://www.paddockspares.com/headlamp-mounting-kit.html

Is this any good?..... http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Defender-MY2002-Wiring-Diagram.pdf

On a Defender it earths through the body of the sensor I think.....

Can you find anything in here?..... http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Defender-MY2002-Wiring-Diagram.pdf

Says here it does the 110 SW too..... https://www.lrparts.net/stc4629-defender-90-hard-top-110-sw-loadspace-rubber-mat-genuine-land-rover-for-vehicles-from-1984-2007.html

And Purple, the one behind Blue/White in your pic is a live feed from your fuses to power the Flash Beams.....

Stolen from the Net.....