If you can't work it out, then looking at that wiring diagram it wouldn't be too difficult to bypass that ECU but it would require replacing the switch with a latching one and adding another relay.

With it being what appears to be a momentary switch, the ECU will contain the logic to turn on/off lights in conjunction with headlights etc.

Thinking about it, if you only have two wires going into the back of it, then the switch must be working fine, otherwise the dash light wouldn't change.

Do you have a multimeter?

It'd be easy just to bypass the switch. If the fog lights then work you know it's the switch at fault. How many wires go into the back of the switch?

Different kit: http://www.paddockspares.com/da3178p-swivel-kit-no-ball-front-axle-from-la930456-to-wa159806.html

The kit that I purchased from Paddock included the retainer

I've just replaced the swivels on mine and decided to replace the CV joints, halft shafts, drive flange, stub axles, bearings etc whilst I was at it as none of the parts were expensive. I was incredibly surprised at how easy the entire job was. The only thing that caused me any difficulty was...

Did these measurements ever materialise?

To remove my steering wheel, I had my 11year old daughter hammer the nut whilst I pulled (hard) on the steering wheel. If you hammer the thread on the steering column though you will damage the thread. By putting the nut on first it protects the thread. So screw the nut on until just before...

Haha, I just read my own post. It's a bush! No need to grease :)

I took the rear door off the other day to weld in some reinforcements for the spare wheel carrier. In the process, one of the round bushings which go between the two halves of the door hinges rolled away and was never seen again. Seeing as the bolts were a bit bent and rusty too, I decided to...

People really can be c**ts some times. My Defender is my pride and joy and a lot of money has gone in to it. I'd be absolutely devastated if something happened to it so I really feel for you. By the sounds of it, everything they've done is fixable so don't be too downhearted. Incidentally, my...

I'll go ahead and do that then. Thanks for clearing that up. In this case, I can just go ahead and throw away part FTC840?

This post on another forum, by pete3000 suggests there is an oil seal either side of the bearing.

FTC840 has a garter spring, but if FTC5268 does then it's not visible (it's a closed unit)

Flat one

It is a 24 spline half shaft. FTC5268 is described as an inner oil seal, and FTC840 is described as an outer oil seal.

This image suggests that it's FTC5268: However, this image, and the images you previously shared, show it as FTC840:

It looks like FTC840 goes inside the stub axle. I just can't work out where FTC5268 goes. I think maybe it goes on the opposite side of the bearing?