Other three wheels are on the ground. I managed to slide out. I tested it again, I have to manoeuvre it in that bucket. The bushes on axle are still in good condition, mot guy pointed to me the bush on chassis is bad, not only this one, but another rear one and a front one.

I got rear bolt out, but front one is at trick position, also blocked by something on axle, need a bit more room

Sorry I meant stand point

For safety, I have jacked both up, near the bolt to chassis is good jack point?

Here is a problem, rear bolt to axle is not sliding out for watts linkage on the way? It seems to me bolt head should be at outside. But all rear bolts are fastened same way, driver side rear bolt has clear space. How did you guys handle this?

mot guy told me that I need to change it, it will fail next year. Anyway only whack conquer them.

I got 21 and 24 mm spanner’s from halford. I have removed the bolt to chassis, it should stay there before I loose bolts to axle, the rear bolt has room to use break bar. I use Jack to lift the bar, the bar has been bent but nothing happened.

I can try spanner’s tomorrow. Since the bolts to axle have no load, hope it is not too tight.

Yes, if you are superman, these are not problem. How can use socket on the front bolt and nut sides?

I saw some youtube disco 2 has clear access space near bolts , but mine has some obstacles. Maybe they are basic model with no ACE and SLS.;)

I am trying to replace all radius arm bushes. I started from passenger side rear one, found no enough room to use socket to remove front nut to axle for rear damper on the way. I don't see disco manual and any info mentioned removal of the damper. When I undid the bolt to chassis, I had to use...

Thanks, I can try as well.

do you have brand name?

Not just tool, suitable connectors too, this one says fitting discovery td5 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274651530003? I have looked at some info, it seems to me the hard jobs are making good flares, then routing pipes to rear brakes. What flares are required to fit?

Appreciate your recommendations, I have considered new pipes, but rarely see new brake lines for sale. Instead I see some pipes to be used for brake lines on ebay, some includes tools, but the safety and reliability are my concerns. I see some info recommends copper-nickel pipe for flexibility...

Thanks! sierrafery. Dinitrol has a series of anti-rust products, Does this one meet the requirement? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144458718139? It seems it doesn't need coating for its primer

I got MOT advisory (Nearside Rear Brake pipe corroded) on brake lines although I painted Waxoyl last year. MOT tester just scratched brake lines and saw rust. I am going to do strong wire-brush this year. Can someone recommend the best anti-rust treatment on brake lines?

Just checked with nanocom, it displayed an error, after cleared it, then restarted, more lights stayed bright like Christmas Day:). I saw a green light first time. I was panic for tomorrow mot retest, then surprising, all lights were gone.

After I reconnected two abs wires, then start engine, other lights are gone but abs. When I unplugged two abs wires and started engine, I saw three amigos, they are original wheel hubs. Do I to turn off it with Nanocom or drive a while? Your ideas are appreciated greatly

My Landy failed mot for knuckle lower ball joints. After mot retest, I would have wheels alignment. I did it long time ago at ATS, it seemed they press tyres from both sides, I don’t know if they adjusted track rod bars.