Hehe, yes I should have thought of the Vaseline first (for the fob, obviously). It's KY for a main dealer visit. Sorry not to be around. I've been into hospital for an operation and now I won't be driving for a few weeks. It will give me time to get the key sorted, anyways.

Update: key fob repair kit arrived today. New buttons fitted, and new batteries installed. Golly that hatch is stiff! I have chewed up th new one just getting it closed. Never mind, though. I got the red light flashing with the buttons. It didn’t do anything to the car at first, but I followed...

Right, thanks. I thought it might be an autocorrect issue! I’ll get the multimeter out there later.

Should that be ‘high resistance’? Thanks for this. Will have a look when it warms up later today. Too cold outside for anything other than checking the heated seats :) Relay terminals are like new.

Have now checked the wiring diagrams. My understanding is that the two halves of the screen have two separate supplies, both fused at 30A and with separate relays. The HWS switch energises one relay, which then energises the other. I have tried swapping the relays over, and also the fuses in...

Just hope they haven’t made it as difficult as with the P38. See my recent thread. Total ballache.

Many thanks.

Right, thanks for that. Will have a look. Having done a bit of reading I suspect the amp is at fault. $$$$

I had it in a vice, with a bradawl in the hatch and knocking it round with a mallet. Nothing. When I have the kit I will try again with a bit more brutality. Do you have to split the unit to get the buttons out or can it be done from the ‘outside’?

Sounds like it might be ... and expensive. I’ve read that the amp is in the boot area. Any idea where?

Hmm, not as simple as I had hoped. I disconnected the LH door tweeter, only to find that the clicking/rattling noise is coming from the door speaker and the rear door speaker as well. It appears to be a fault in the LH audio channel, as I can eliminate it by setting the balance completely to the...

Now sorted! It was to do with the way I was downloading the files from Dropbox, I think. I saw the Rave folder and thought that was it - when I just downloaded the entire contents, it came up with a different folder name and all the extra files, including the vital Rave.exe. Many thanks to all...

Will do, thanks. I have ordered the button repair and battery kit, so hopefully I will have a working remote soon.

The file turned out to be 3.3 GB in the end, so I was obviously not downloading the correct one. The folder now looks like this. Still no RAVE application. I have opened the folder Rave Manual ISOs and tried to extract Rave02.iso (P38) but while it spent a long time extracting, I can't find...

Heh, this one is 2.6 GB and still going.

Thanks mate. Will have a look if the one al-one-arm suggested doesn't work for me. It's not finished downloading yet, and it's already way bigger than the zip file I first downloaded. I think I know what I have done ...

Heh, thanks. I just found that and I'm downloading it as we speak. Cheers.

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Windows 7, ver 6.1. From a link on here, in a thread about cruise control, I think. It was a link to a dropbox file. It looks as though what I have is corrupted in some way. I will try a different link, if I can find it again. Thanks for your patience, guys.

Ah, misunderstanding. The 'green oval' I was talking about is just the icon. I don't have the application that you have.