Too true!

Thanks for this Darren - is this your experience? I ask because I have no experience either way but the official recommendation seems to be that stainless fasteners in alu panels are ok. The article I linked to highlights this combination in use in major civil engineering construction.

Thanks everyone - much appreciated. I've got rid of most of the aluminium oxide and will keep going until it is nice and clean. I've also had three patch panels (175x110mm) cut and shaped at a local engineering firm. They made them in 3mm alu as that's what they had in stock. They also...

In the process of doing some some work on my 2003 110 SW I temporarily removed the 60/40 middle row seats. There are three mounting points and the aluminium body work around both the outside ones has corroded quite badly. I think it is caused by galvanic corrosion as the aluminium body work...

I really don't think there is more risk than before. The adhesive/rubber is not water soluble and so it will be very hard for water to gather under the silent coat, and I'm sealing the joints just in case. If I see water on the surface of the insulation then I will track it down just as I do...

Silent coat isn't foam, it's a semi-solid butyl rubber that absorbs vibration. I will probably cover quite a bit of it with some closed cell foam and then pretty much all of it with rubber mats or original factory trim.

This is as far as I've got. You can see the silent coat just appearing on the transmission tunnel from under the refitted seat box trim.

The middle row. I've deliberately not gone further back until I sort out the rotten mounting points. Once they are sorted I will cover the rest of this section in silent coat.

The almost completed tub

One of the two rotten middle row mounts

The tub near the beginning - passenger side rear bench removed and first sheets of silent coat down.

So here's an update on my progress so far... I've removed the bench seat on one side and the middle row. I will do the bench seat on the other side when I recover a bit of strength as it was murder getting the others off. I think I sheared about 3 or 4 of the bolts despite soaking then in...

I like that a lot Allan! I plan to do do my bonnet when I have finished inside. Did it make much difference and does it stay on ok?

It It's def not condensation. It The difference compared to a full bear roof in a 110 is huge, especially in the rain. To be fair though I normally have a full headlining and so the results are less dramatic when it is in but I feel it does make it a bit quieter, especially in the rain...

Err I have done the whole pressure spray from outside and almost nothing came in. The water has been seeping in on an obscure pathway that is not immediately visible otherwise I would have found it by now. And as per the original post I don't want a quiet car, just a slightly less noisy one...

It is indeed. A bargain from Decathon - cheap 7mm camping mats cut to size by my 12 year old daughter and stuck in place with evostick spray adhesive

Thanks Yalan. That is pretty much what I intend to do in the front. I'm well on the way to covering the rear tub. Photos to follow

Struggling a bit tbh but not given up yet. Roof lining out again today and the hunt for the roof leak will be on again tomorrow.

Thanks - this makes good sense to me. I'll let you know what I end up doing.

Thanks Turboman My ex MOD 110 SW with the sum total of 2 rubber mats on the floor is not exactly quiet :) I decided not to go for the NK stuff because they use open cell foam as part of the kit. Otherwise I would have gone for it, especially as they are fairly local to me. The 2mm is only a...