I used to find a good long road with an incline then in third or fourth gear give it the beans so the engine was pulling from about 1.5k rpm. You should then see the turbo pressure peak at just after 2k rpm through until about 4k rpm where it will start to drop away again. Just watch yoiur...

Are these "on road under load" figures as you will never get a turbo to boost anywhere near max free revving? Something to do with one of those fancy physics laws such as Boyles or similar. I know I should have paid attention at school.

:D

Do you want me to wash it? :rolleyes:

I pretty sure the loom is a red herring and not the cause of your problems. When I changed my 10p for a 15p engine I retained the 10p loom with no issues. When I had oil in the red plug I then fitted a 15p loom again with no issues.

So the readings given are from a separate boost gauge and not the indicated MAP readings and you had exactly the same max reading on both turbos? Have you tried adjusting the wastegate to get more or less max boost? I find it very coincidental that both turbos would read "exactly" the same...

What boost are you trying to achieve? Stock turbo is easily capable of 32psi or more. Just watch your exhaust gas temps. It sounds like your unadjusted turbo wastegate needs adjusting. I'm assuming you have had the overboost limp setting raised on the remap? You can get a modified MAP sensor...

I strongly recommend that you don't short your battery under any circumstances - especially if you have a test lamp. My best guess based upon what you have described above is that you have an earth fault to the body affecting the ECU. The earth to the motor is fine because you say the engine cranks.

Bumpty bump ;)

Have you checked the basics first? Battery connections all tight? All fuses OK? Fuel in the tank? Oil in the engine? Pull the relays one at a time and check connections are clean and tight. Find the fuel pump relay and make sure it is not faulty. If you know what you are doing power the fuel...

I've never had any dirty or contaminated oil that I've bought new and sealed. I fill my engines via the oil cap so any crud would go straight into the engine the wrong side of the filter anyhow. Filling or not the oil filter would not prevent any of that. Clean oil in the turbo bearing inlet is...

As James says torque it up and away you go. The arm does not need to contact the seal as it would wear it away. What you are seeing is the dust seal and not an oil seal. Check it after a day or two just to make sure the arm is still tight.

Yes mate PM sent

If you are going to the time and trouble, not to mention expense, of replacing the crankshaft then why would you not change any critical bolts? For what they cost the peace of mind is worth every penny. Don't forget to locktite the oil pump drive sprocket bolt while you are in the there. I have...

No worries it's just gathering dust in my man cave. Good luck and hope it sorts your problem.

Will not make any noticeable difference to the power output.

I have a good used one you can have if it helps? Drop me a PM with your address and I'll post it.

These are now sold. Thanks for looking. Will be taken off my new truck with less than 700 genuine on road miles. They still have all the pimples on them. The spare is unused. Replacing next weekend with a more aggressive off road tyre for forestry work. Looking for £250 for the five. These...

Long shot but you never know...... Next weekend I'll have 5 as new Bridgestone Dueller HT 894 265x60 R18 tyres for sale with less than 700 miles on them. Taken off my new truck as fitting BFGs. Looking for £250 the lot. Retail is about £140 each so thats 5 as new tyres for less than the...

Sorry mate just seen this as been working off shore. Never had a spare tank cradle. Got mine galved when I got it and it was like new when the Fender sold.