if i disconnect the switch would it be possible to test the connecters for voltage. obviously i mean the end connected to the car. i am trying to establish whether or not the sensors are actually getting power to them to do their thing.

ta, dont suppose you know how much coolant i will lose by changing it and if i will likely get an air lock???

yeah the right one as standing at the front of car.

i bet freddie mercury did....:hysterically_laughi

i have noticed a leak in the above hose at the baulkhead end ,where it connects to the heater pipe. strange thing is it is of an oily clear subtance when my coolant is red. it is dripping on outlet pipes and also drips on to the rocker cover where it seems to turn in to a greeny yellow...

i have found this Four Wire Titania Sensor Colour Connection Black Ref. (out) Yellow Ref. (in) Red Heater (+) White Heater (-) Universal Titania Sensor Output 0 to 5 Volt* so would i be right to assume black is positive and yellow is negative

ok i got one for a tenner from screwfix. can someone advise how to check if lambdas have got a feed to them

thanks all for advice. i will be getting one of these pronto

sent them back today, they are differant on pre 97. you would have expected them to know that. instead they listed them as fitting all p38's. anyway today i am looking for advice on buying a volt meter or multi meter as i want to have a play. any idea which one i should go for?

yep not that far from me, about 25 miles ( a tank full i reckon ) sensors where to big, the bastards have sent the wrong ones. they have sent the ones i ordered which are supposed to fit. they are supposed to replace part number mhk100940. is this correct. could someone take a look please...

argh right well if you lived in yarmouth or somewhere closer ( got to think of the petrol ) i would pay you a visit. now going to fit the sensors, they have turned up at last. i never realised they had holes in the end:eek:

whats the old magic box? testbook? i dont think the car car has gone wrong early? i think that these problems have been there for a while. i was taken in by its looks, and am spotting something new wrong with it everyday. now the mrs has started "get rid of it" she says. she misses the old...

where can i get a new one from for £70?

do you know how to open the rave manual. i downloaded magic iso but the file is to big to open for free. they want $30 and was wondering if there was freeware to open it.

i dont think so but it idles eratically and eventually stalls. it is imossible to drive with it disconnected. in regards to the light not staying on, i am thinking that there is no voltage to the lambdas hence why that not work. i would'nt know how to test even if i had a voltage meter

thanks for the support j, do you know anthing about the check engine light. is it supposed to stay on with lambdas disconnected. how did you get on with yours? i am still waiting for the bloody coriour to bring me mine

yeah i agree with that, i have the overhaul manual on cd with plenty of pictures but i think its more for the already competent mechanic. irishrover if you are about i have got both sensors off and got them both disconnected. i started her up and looked for the check engine light to stay...

if this rave talks in laymens terms and offers a step by step guide then for the novice ,prehaps theres a chance. if its like the haynes books that i shant even bother reading it...

i downloaded rave to my desktop but it isnt there, it says something about cd rom image. can you send me the link again and i will try and download it cd rom drive. please. ta.

ha ha ha ha ha , i paid jason to put a new rad and condensor on remember so what would i be doing touching the head. mind you i reckon i could have done the rad.:doh: its just a case of knowing. its all easy when you know how but any monkey can learn new tricks..