tempted to have a crack at it. i downloaded rave but cannot open it due to it being a cd rom image or something. i downloaded magic iso to open it but the file is to big to open for free. wants me to pay $30.

fett, check out the 4.6 hse fuel consumption thread....

yeah i reckon i could do that, thanks irish. one last thing though, can i do all that with the belt on?

how big a job is it to inspect it though. the biggest job i have done on an engine is took the rocker cover off.

thats on 40 mile run at 50-60ish

would some kind of lubricante help. as i say i only have to just tap it with my knuckle and away it goes

it has been suggested that the gap looks a bit big.

will definatly keep you posted but i dont want to just chuck money at it willy nilly. if i new for definate what was up i would get it done, within reason... if not the sensors what would you be looking to do next. i have had the stepper motor suggested as a possible problem only...

is the plate that spins round on the outside of the pump the clutch plate and can anyone tell me why it sometimes need a nudge to get to spin. the air con works ok until this stops but is all ok again once i give it a tap and it starts spinning again.

irish, just been down east runton for the day and rounded it off with a pint in the white horse ( they didnt have any salt n shake crisps though ) i got the old trip meter up to 13.8 mpg. if one of the lambda sensors is duff will and the other is working will it still improve the mpg much. i...

i have been updating the hse 4.6 fuel consumption thread, but to answer your question, i feel abit more positive about it at the moment.. thanks

no way. i had a new rad, system flushed and nice new coolant about 3 weeks ago. i am sure that losing a pint and re topping with de-ironised water is not goung to hurt.

changed it today with no problems. done what you said, heater side off first and quickly got new pipe on. probably lost about a pint of coolant. biggest **** off was £30 for that and 2 breather pipes from jsf in norwich ( right rip off ). i could have got them from internet a lot cheaper but i...

yeah i did know that but i read somewhere that if one side works it can still send the running rich message to ecu. just wondering if it had to be a perticular side. my air filter has been changed, and thats another thing, as a test i was thinking of leaving it out to see if it sucked more...

i was thinkin that too until irish said about ecu reset. not to sure if he thinks both sensors are ok. i am thinking about driving somewhere pitch black and looking for a firework display under the bonnet as i read on an old thread that faulty leads can lead to excessive mpg. i am also looking...

so do you think both sensors are ok then and i should be getting the ecu reset. i had the becs reset when it was plugged in to testbook. i don't know if it is all in my mind but i switched the sensors around and have been playing around abit today with stuff. nothing really but i checked all...

ok i after a fashion i have managed to take some readings. one sides readings jumped about quickly and was quite difficult to read but i managed to see some flucturations in the 0.4v to 0.9v which going by the site lambdasensor.com is in the required limits to confirm that it is working...

arh stuff it, i will just do it.....

with the sensors disconnected the black and yellow registered 4.92v and red and white registered 12v the same outcome on both sides. so i assume that juice is getting to the sensors. i cannot see how i would test the sensors while they are connected as there is nowhere to put the prongs...

cheers irish thats a good read and in simple terms for us novices to understand